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Freedom or Death
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 15 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Eli Helmuth |
Page Views: | 5,419 total · 46/month |
Shared By: | Kerwin Loukusa on Sep 11, 2014 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
A 4 pitch route that rejoins liberty crack just above the P2 anchor. Identify the start as small leftward trending ramp leading to a face, bolts should be visible above.
Pitches break down to.
P1. 5.10b/c, Climb up through face and crack system to bolts on a slab. Requires 4-5 pieces of gear before the first bolt. Dont go to far left at the beginning, trend more or less straight up.
P2 5.11c, step left from the anchor and follow bolts upward trending slightly right, a finger size piece or two could be placed, but is not necessary.
P3 5.12a, follow bolts up and left, sustained climbing, hard to aid. bring a .5, .75, and #1 camalot.
P4 5.10c, awkward rough traverse to the left, with some spicy moves to get into liberty crack, you will rejoin just above the P2 anchor. The remaining crack to the P3 anchor is rated 11+ R, but felt PG13 to me. Offset nuts, and finger size pieces will protect this piece well.
It is also possible to link Pitch 3 into the adjacent Thin Red Line P4. To do this step right and gain Juggy flake on right side of slab before clipping the final bolt on Freedom or Death. Use runners well to avoid rope drag.
Pitches break down to.
P1. 5.10b/c, Climb up through face and crack system to bolts on a slab. Requires 4-5 pieces of gear before the first bolt. Dont go to far left at the beginning, trend more or less straight up.
P2 5.11c, step left from the anchor and follow bolts upward trending slightly right, a finger size piece or two could be placed, but is not necessary.
P3 5.12a, follow bolts up and left, sustained climbing, hard to aid. bring a .5, .75, and #1 camalot.
P4 5.10c, awkward rough traverse to the left, with some spicy moves to get into liberty crack, you will rejoin just above the P2 anchor. The remaining crack to the P3 anchor is rated 11+ R, but felt PG13 to me. Offset nuts, and finger size pieces will protect this piece well.
It is also possible to link Pitch 3 into the adjacent Thin Red Line P4. To do this step right and gain Juggy flake on right side of slab before clipping the final bolt on Freedom or Death. Use runners well to avoid rope drag.
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