ML gives this 4* which I felt was somewhat overenthusiastic by the standards of the cliff -- it's not too long and it's a little bit close to the 10a to its left (nature's fault, not the 1st ascensionist's); the pitch will improve with some traffic.
Thin crack climbing up to a bolt (another of questionable necessity) followed by an interesting technical crux. Shortly thereafter the climbing eases and the adjacent 10a comes into play. Finish the pitch by pulling over the right side of a roof.
On the right side of First Buttress. See Lewis for details.
Small to medium nuts, cams from thin fingers to gold Camalot. The red C3 comes in handy in the middle of the crux. If you like toprope pro, a red RP fits well slightly above the bolt.
From: Mojave, CA
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maybe I was having an off day, but this route seemed difficult for the grade. The gear is good, but the jams are very insecure through the crux.
|By Johnny Y|
Jul 6, 2014
tried to use the right side crimps + flared jam at the crux and fell, ended up doing something completely different and was way more manageable