After the slab scramble on the right of the stream, you can cross over to the left again. Hike past a boulder and the first line of bolts (3) are this climb. Steep climbing and funky moves are the name of the game. Lieback up the diagonalling rows of rock to gain the top. Love that double knob, near the top. Clips seemed to be a little strenuous, but not too hard.
3 draws for the route and 2 more for the chains.
From: Olympic Valley, CA
Jul 13, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climbed this today, there was a lot of loose holds on it. The freeze/thaw cycle wasn't too kind to it. I've climbed this in years past and enjoyed it, but I wouldn't recommend it anymore. There is on block below the second bolt that seemed like it could go at any moment.
If you are planning on getting on this, please test your holds and climb carefully. You might want to have your belayer stand on the next ledge downstream so they would be out of rockfall zone.
Aug 28, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climbed this today. I didn't notice any holds that seemed loose and I was definitely cranking on whatever I could. There was little if anything loose around on the climb.
I think it's definitely worth a climb but seemed ultra stout for a 10.b rating. The three guys with me all agreed it was closer to a 10.c/d. It's pretty comparable in difficulty to "de oppresso liber", the 10.d just to the right, which isn't listed here on MP.