Free Trad Movie until the 20th

hotaches.com/

Amazing video and some big wips!!!!!

Spred the word!

And Enjoy!

bump

I just got done watching the movie and thought it was good.

I like how they talked about the mental aspect of climbing above gear / trad climbing and the risk. I could relate to what they were saying and was actually nice to hear how other people feel when climbing at their level grades.

The whole mentality of the movie was appealing. Periodically my interest would fade but overall like said, was good.

Some really cool routes, bad ass chicks, hard climbs and good music.

i luuuv how the sport weenie chick has a bigger set of brass ones than most people and climbs harder trad than us intraweb wannabes ;)

Do they have gear beta for their onsights?

I am SO in love with Hazel Findlay.

Darren Mabe wrote:Do they have gear beta for their onsights?

The way they described their guidebooks makes it seem like the descriptions might include a little. I'm sure some of the heady routes have bits such as "No gear after the small roof" or something along those lines.

Fun video. Hazel is... amazing! Thanks to HotAches for sharing this video.

yeah...any definitive answer on the gear-ditching thing? I was thinking

A. leaving excess weight once they've protected themselves from a groundfall, bringing extra because they had no info on the gear, or

B. weighting the pieces to prevent them from lifting up

C. they are possessed by some sort of spirit and they have no idea why they do it

D. idk

I suspect they are bringing everything on the onsight attempt ... You never know whats going to be up there

Once you get high enough to get a better idea, ditch the weight

Really cool to see some of these areas after having climbed at them. I totally agree with Hazel that sometimes it's hard to push yourself here. It's just so mentally taxing. There really isn't that many hard routes here with obviously good gear. Most routes over E3 look like they should be bolted. Either that or you're standing up against the wall with waves crashing behind you and you have no chance to see any of the route from the ground. It's kind of crazy.

As far as ditching the gear:

On Tombola (E7) and My Piano (E8) you can see where your last good gear is when your standing on the ground. These routes aren't that tall - maybe 50 feet. You can gain enough info from the ground so that you know if you fall from the top, as long as the gear in that horizontal holds, you are not going to deck.

So you take all your gear so that you can have a lot of options for the last horizontal - and once you're happy with the nest you've built, you commit to the top. Even if there MAY be some tiny stopper placements above the horizontal, what's the point? You're safe from the ground and almost to the top.

But it does say "flash" when it introduces the routes. Probably says "flash" just as many times as "onsight." That means someone has given them a lot of beta.

They all climb on double ropes, exclusively. Many of the routes seem short and not wandering. Any idea why? Is this a UK thing?

Of course, the French girl clips them as twins.

That was a really enjoyable hour of climbing. I was especially impressed with the audio.

coldatom wrote:They all climb on double ropes, exclusively. Many of the routes seem short and not wandering. Any idea why? Is this a UK thing? Of course, the French girl clips them as twins.

On one of Hazel's last routes in the movie I noticed she clipped them as twins initially on a pitch, then switched to clipping them separately later in the pitch and finished the pitch clipping them again as twins. I've always been under the impression that's not a good thing to do. Thoughts?

Quality film, tradical!

Jason Halladay wrote:That was a really enjoyable hour of climbing. I was especially impressed with the audio. On one of Hazel's last routes in the movie I noticed she clipped them as twins initially on a pitch, then switched to clipping them separately later in the pitch and finished the pitch clipping them again as twins. I've always been under the impression that's not a good thing to do. Thoughts?

i emailed mammut and they said its totally fine ...

you had a question on your Mammut rope Phoenix 8mm and whether it can be used in twin and half rope technique in one single pitch. This is the case, you can always clip the two rope strands as twins, then split them as doubles, join again etc. This is exactly the advantage of half ropes compared to twin ropes where you always need to clip both ropes.

Hope this helps you,
best regards from Switzerland,

Productmanager Climbing Equipment

i suspect the cute blond brit knows what she is doing better than all of us intraweb tough guys ;)

I know nothin' about being an interweb tough guy, but I do know cute when I see it....and Hazel is that!

bearbreeder wrote:I emailed mammut and they said its totally fine ... I suspect the cute blond brit knows what she is doing better than all of us intraweb tough guys ;)

Nice to hear and agreed.

Best film from these guys yet! Thanks for the link

coldatom wrote:They all climb on double ropes, exclusively. Many of the routes seem short and not wandering. Any idea why? Is this a UK thing? Of course, the French girl clips them as twins.

It is definitely a UK thing. Even on straight routes, Skinny doubles are the standard here, and most times you need them. Even when the routes don't wander, the pro sometimes does. Doubles keep you from having to sling stuff out, which is good since many routes have cruxes that are close to ground fall territory.

Is it still free? All I see is that they are discounting the movie only

Hands are sweating...cool vid!