Free to Choose 5.8+
| 2,120 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup, November 2006 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Dec 1, 2006 |
| |
Romain Wacziarg is all smiles after seconding the ...
Add Photo Printer View
Description Free to Choose follows one of the most obvious lines in the Fortress--2 pitches of airy and aesthetic arete climbing. Pitch 1 (95 feet, 5.6/5.7) follows 9 bolts up a unique, 3-feet wide knife-blade arete. Cross the gully and belay from bolts. Pitch 2 (85 feet, 5.8) follows 8 bolts up the ever-steepening arete to a dihedral and finishes on a ledge with bolts. 2-rappels with a 60-meter rope will get you down.
Location Free to Choose climbs the left-hand arete of the right-most slab at the Fortress. See photo for location.
Protection All bolts are 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts (except for two 13mm Fixe Triplex bolts)
Romain Wacziarg casts off on the second pitch of "...
| Romain Wacziarg nears the top of pitch 1 on the Fo...
| Matthew Fienup nears the top of pitch 2 on the fir...
| BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Free to Choose.
| David Hoffberg climbs the very unusual, 90-foot ta...
| Michael McKay wrapping up the first pitch of Free ...
| Diego Hellewell climbs the airy second pitch of "F...
| Laden with about 30 lbs. of gear, Romain climbs th...
| Romain Wacziarg nears the top of the second pitch ...
| | | |
| Comments on Free to Choose |
|
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Dec 1, 2006
| As one might expect, Free to Choose will take some time and traffic to clean up perfectly...but it will. This is some of the hardest and best Central Coast sandstone I've climbed on. Until then, there is still lichen and a little loose rock. |
By Eileen From: Ventura, California Apr 20, 2007 rating: 5.8
| I've lead the first pitch of this twice now (2nd outing we just did the first pitch to get to the other climbs). It's gotten a little bit cleaner between times so it should just continue to improve and I think it will end up being a nice beginner lead climb. |
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 29, 2007
| I climbed this route today for the n-th time. It is really cleaning up nicely. I must say though, the second pitch feels like it is getting harder. The moves through the fourth and fifth bolts felt like 5.9 to me. |
By Diego Hellewell From: Culver City, CA Jul 30, 2007 rating: 5.9
| I felt like the 2nd pitch was a little above 5.8 as well. Classic arete, climbs smooth, but the 5.8 is misleading. |
By Jeff Mahoney From: Santa Barbara, CA Dec 3, 2007
| Yes, cleaning up nicely. Fun and balancey. I'd say 5.8+ because the holds are there, it's just a weight shift issue through that second pitch crux. (Are you sure you can't do this route with a 50m rope? Seems a lot shorter.) |
By Romain Wacziarg Dec 20, 2007 rating: 5.9
| Jeff - you might be able to rap down P2 with a 50 meter rope - I have not tried, but there was quite a bit of rope left with a 60 meter. However, to rap down P1 a 60 meter rope will just barely get you down to terra firma. |
By Romain Wacziarg Sep 29, 2008 rating: 5.9
| With a broken hold midway up the second pitch, this may now be a 5.9 climb. |
By Ryan Kosh From: Los Angeles, CA Dec 1, 2008 rating: 5.9
| Climbed this last weekend. Be mindful of rockfall as this route is still a bit loose. Lead both pitches and agree on a 5.9 rating for the second pitch. Great rock that dried out from the recent rain quicker than the wall at Potrero. |
By Rob Chaney Apr 15, 2009 rating: 5.9+
| Climbed this on 4/14/2008, now that part of the second pitch has broken off clipping the 4th bolt is very barndoor'ish lack of a good left foot makes this clip very intense, blowing this clip would result in a pretty serous fall. add 1/2 a grade just for clipping this bolt. 9+ |
By Slater May 26, 2009 rating: 5.9
| I lead the first pitch and thought it was contrived. I didn't like being 50' off the ground on the right side, but 3' off the ground on the left side, but I was keeping an open mind. Then my nephew lead the 2nd pitch. 5.9 for sure. Was starting to like it but then ran into the last 30' of the route. The whole right side of the route is ready to fall off on the top part. It shuddered, shook, vibrated, made that hollow sound, and then the belay was set on top of a pile of loose blocks. I like adventure climbing, so I can accept it, but I'm hoping there are better routes at this crag. |
By Richard Shore Aug 17, 2009
| Climbed this route on sunday 8/16/09. Very fun climb. Must have seen some traffic as it has cleaned up very nicely, with little loose rock and lichen. The second pitch is great! More difficult (5.9?) than the first pitch. There is a scary big block on the right at the top of the second pitch. It is literally hanging off the face of the arete. Within the next few years, or maybe just one heavy rain season, it will surely topple down the mountain. I just don't want to be at the base when that 2-ton bomb comes crashing down. |
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Aug 17, 2009
| The top of this route is equipped with Metolius Rap Hangers--thick, oversized hangers that are designed to have the rope fed directly through the hanger for rappels. |
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Dec 24, 2009 rating: 5.7
| Can easily be climbed in a single, 140' pitch with no rope drag. The first 60' of climbing is no harder than about 5.0, but the last 80' is good. The bolting is excessive in my opinion. |
By John Knight Jan 19, 2011
| Only climbed the first pitch since we were headed over to PIH. This was a nice introduction to Fortress Climbing. I thought P1 was more like 5.7 but it was my first climb at the Fortress so it's hard to tell. It is a bit weird climbing with an 8' drop on your left and a 40' drop off to your right. The first pitch is clean and solid. Bolts were available whenever you needed them. It certainly has value as an approach pitch to PIH. Note - The traverse over to PIH is a bit exposed and loose but easy. |
By Matt N From: Santa Barbara, CA Feb 11, 2012 rating: 5.8+
| I believe the reason for the close bolts is to protect the leader and follower as a swinging fall off the arete wouldn't be too fun. I liked all the bolts, but still don't like the rock. The crux is trusting your holds; I kept telling my belayer "watch out when/if I step on this hold". |
By Didj From: ojai, ca Aug 20, 2012 rating: 5.9- PG13
| Nice intro climb into the fortress. Great site. Fun approach. My partner and I were stoked to learn about this area from Mountain Project a month ago. There's a bit of loose rock up at the top of the 2nd pitch so it may be nice for the belayer to wear a helmet. 2nd pitch is when things get a little more challenging. Once I got to the third bolt it was like sticking my head in a wind tunnel. Was tough to communicate with my belayer. Overall it appears to be a bit more cleaned up now. It was over 100 degrees so the wind felt pretty good but it did dry us out a bit. |
|