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 ADVANCED
Loch Vale Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Smear? T 
Crystal Meth T 
Free Strike Zone T 
Hydrogen Bondage 
Icy Chim T 
L of Lochluster T 
Lochluster T 
M5? hand crack T 
Mixed Feelings T 
Mo' Flo' Than Go T 
R of Lochluster TR 
Replicant (unnamed) TR 
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T 
Rock, Wood, Ice T 

Free Strike Zone 

WI5 M7+

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus: WI5 M7+ [details]
FA: Dave Sheldon, 1996?
Season: Late Fall Early Winter
Page Views: 1,959
Submitted By: John Choboian on Dec 4, 2004

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John Choboian climbing onto the pillar of Free Str...

Description 

This fantastic climb will test your sport, trad and ice climbing techniques. The route is just right of Mixed Feelings. Begin by hooking on overhanging rock past 3 bolts to a good fixed pin. The climbing eases up somewhat past the pin and continues up to the crack system. Traverse the crack system left on good hand holds but tricky foot holds to the free hanging ice pillar. Climb the pillar to the slung tree.


Protection 

3 bolts, 1 fixed pin, 4-5 medium cams and 3-4 ice screws. 3-4 two foot runners are highly recommended to reduce rope drag. Anchor on the tree with slings at the top of the route


Toprope Protection 

The route is overhanging and the hanging ice could be broken off. Not recommended for top roping.



Photos of Free Strike Zone Slideshow Add Photo
Dan on Free Strike Zone on Dec 02, 2007.
Dan on Free Strike Zone on Dec 02, 2007.
attempting its 2nd ascent.
attempting its 2nd ascent.
Begining moves on Free Strike Zone, Loch Vale Gorge, RMNP, 12/2/07  My first time trying mixed climbing...I didn't make it very far.  M7 is a bit much for beginners.
Begining moves on Free Strike Zone, Loch Vale Gorg...
another look at physical therapy, not as far away as Norway
another look at physical therapy, not as far away ...
Pulling through the 3rd bolt on Free Strike Zone. We also pulled a 30 pound block off making a new super good tool placement between bolt 2 and 3.
Pulling through the 3rd bolt on Free Strike Zone. ...
Comments on Free Strike Zone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Christiansen
Jan 27, 2003

Does anyone have any info on Strike Free Zone? (WI5 M7+).

By Nate Christiansen
Jan 27, 2003

Could someone give me some beta for Strike Free Zone? (WI5 M7+). It's on the way to the Loch. I've scoped it out once and it looks totally bad. I was surprised that no one has posted this route and others, Bladerunner, etc. If you don't know where it is, but have done it, it is just to the right of Mixed Feelings (WI5 M5).

By Mike Shelton
Mar 21, 2005

This route is still "in" with full value making the transition from the rock to the ice. The ice is detached from the lower bulge so it's a thin, free hanging dagger. Be prepared to move up a bit before the ice is thick enough to get a shorty. I've struggled with gear selection on this route and would offer two suggestions: use a double length runner on the piece you'd put at the "top" of the corner and shoulder length runners on anything put along the rising crack or at the corner before moving up. I brought a 0.5, 0.75, and 1 Camalot. Try not to get sucked into putting your last piece to far to the left before moving up the ice, it will cause horrible rope drag when the pump factor is huge. Great route with a hands free rest before the transition to ice.

By jay dee
Oct 29, 2008

I think the FA should be: Dave Sheldon 1996.