I'd give this route 4 stars if were just a little longer. This route starts out pulling a steep section on jugs. Then the crack goes from hands to fingers, with a thin crux at the top.
We cleaned this route in January and it has held up well so far. It dries fairly quickly after rain.
Go to the far left (West)end of Shady Lane and locate the obvious crack. Walk off the left side of the cliff.
Gear to 3", with mainly finger sized pro.. One fixed pin protects the crux move. Belay off trees at the top.
|Comments on Free Range Chook
|By TM Miller|
May 19, 2009
Excellent route. It protects very well. Great route for those wanting to break into 5.10 climbing and it can also be easily toproped.
|By Mark Straub|
From: Everett, WA
Oct 23, 2010
Good route, but hard crux right at the top! I was expecting a 5.10b tips lock, and instead there was nothing but a flaring pocket. All the other moves are cruiser, and it protects great.
|By Laurel Fan|
Jun 13, 2011
Still clean! We climbed this because we thought it was the first pitch of Davis-Holland (I know...). I was expecting 5.9! Oops!