Free Mexican Air Force
|512 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.11b [details]|
|FA: ||John Slezak and Cindy Ingraham, 1994 Possible FFA: Jonathan Knight and Noah Bigwood, 2006|
|Submitted By: ||jonathan knight on Aug 10, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Viva la Revolucion!
Another great route that could use some traffic. It's bit heady due to the machine bolts protecting the crux first pitch. I have no idea how bomber they are. We traversed right to start the second pitch to gain a crack system. I think the original route may have stayed on the arete for this pitch, but it looks like the dirtier and more difficult option. Just another excuse to do it again, I guess. The first pitch is pretty clean as are the second and third with the exception of some veg in the cracks. Typically, the top of last pitch is a little rotten, but not very scary.
Exceptional position on the NW arete of the S. Summit wall with a super nice ledge on top of the second pitch. All four pitches were well over 100'.
Mixed gear and 6 machine bolts on the first pitch. Bring some extra wires to sling these little terrors along with a standard rack. 3 bolt (5/16ths) anchors a top the first and second pitches. 2 bolt anchor for the third with a couple of fixed bashies along the way.
looking down on pitch 3 of FMAF. great chicken he...
|Comments on Free Mexican Air Force
Aug 11, 2010
YAAARR! Thanks for the post, Jonathan!
|By Rob Duncan|
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.11b PG13
We also moved out right after about three 'bolts' and traversed back left into the anchor for P1. traversing R definitely looked easier than staying on the grittier rock on the arete proper. The machine bolts looked ok, and there's gear to be had between them to make it a manageable affair.
Really glad we got on it. the placements are cleaner now! 11b,10,10,8.