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Free Mexican Air Force 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Slezak and Cindy Ingraham, 1994 Possible FFA: Jonathan Knight and Noah Bigwood, 2006
Page Views: 591
Submitted By: jonathan knight on Aug 10, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Viva la Revolucion!


Another great route that could use some traffic. It's bit heady due to the machine bolts protecting the crux first pitch. I have no idea how bomber they are. We traversed right to start the second pitch to gain a crack system. I think the original route may have stayed on the arete for this pitch, but it looks like the dirtier and more difficult option. Just another excuse to do it again, I guess. The first pitch is pretty clean as are the second and third with the exception of some veg in the cracks. Typically, the top of last pitch is a little rotten, but not very scary.


Exceptional position on the NW arete of the S. Summit wall with a super nice ledge on top of the second pitch. All four pitches were well over 100'.


Mixed gear and 6 machine bolts on the first pitch. Bring some extra wires to sling these little terrors along with a standard rack. 3 bolt (5/16ths) anchors a top the first and second pitches. 2 bolt anchor for the third with a couple of fixed bashies along the way.

Photos of Free Mexican Air Force Slideshow Add Photo
looking down on pitch 3 of FMAF.  great chicken head climbing on solid stone!  notice the ridiculous amount of snow still present. taken August 13th 2011.
looking down on pitch 3 of FMAF. great chicken he...
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By mountainsense
Aug 11, 2010

YAAARR! Thanks for the post, Jonathan!

By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

We also moved out right after about three 'bolts' and traversed back left into the anchor for P1. traversing R definitely looked easier than staying on the grittier rock on the arete proper. The machine bolts looked ok, and there's gear to be had between them to make it a manageable affair.

Really glad we got on it. the placements are cleaner now! 11b,10,10,8.