Free Mexican Air Force  5.11b PG13

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  John Slezak and Cindy Ingraham, 1994 Possible FFA: Jonathan Knight and Noah Bigwood, 2006 Submitted By:  jonathan knight on Aug 10, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Viva la Revolucion!

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Description 

Another great route that could use some traffic. It's bit heady due to the machine bolts protecting the crux first pitch. I have no idea how bomber they are. We traversed right to start the second pitch to gain a crack system. I think the original route may have stayed on the arete for this pitch, but it looks like the dirtier and more difficult option. Just another excuse to do it again, I guess. The first pitch is pretty clean as are the second and third with the exception of some veg in the cracks. Typically, the top of last pitch is a little rotten, but not very scary.

Location 

Exceptional position on the NW arete of the S. Summit wall with a super nice ledge on top of the second pitch. All four pitches were well over 100'.

Protection 

Mixed gear and 6 machine bolts on the first pitch. Bring some extra wires to sling these little terrors along with a standard rack. 3 bolt (5/16ths) anchors a top the first and second pitches. 2 bolt anchor for the third with a couple of fixed bashies along the way.

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looking down on pitch 3 of FMAF. great chicken he...