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 ADVANCED
Twilight Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cosmic Thing T 
Free Me 
Free Me (free) T 
Rome In a Day S 
Sunset Arete S 
Unknown T 
Without Wheels T 

Free Me (free) 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FFA - Chris Thomas 11/2007. George Rosenthal and Ted Coletti 1990 (Aid)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 920
Submitted By: christ on May 20, 2008

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Description 

A short, brutally thin seam that starts low on the Twilight Buttress. More of an RP-protected boulder problem than anything else. Jam and lieback the obvious seam past two fixed pins, using some small features on the face as well. The crux comes about a third of the way up, just before making a long move to an edge out right. Difficult to rate -- .13b or c, but some others should try it to consolidate the grade. A great route!


Location 

Start low on the twighlight buttress, off of a steep slope. There is a large boulder and pine tree just left of the start.


Protection 

Two fixed pins, small TCUs, and brass nuts. Lowe Balls are nice but not necessary. A bolt protects the mantel onto the slab at the top. Plese don't nail this route! It goes clean, whether aid or free.



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By christ
May 20, 2008

I realize that this route already exists in the database, but I thought that after the FFA it would be appropriate to add an entry for the free route as well. Anyone else have an opinion about this? I also considered just adding comments in the existing entry, but then if someone was searching for free routes it wouldn't show up.

By Ben Folsom
May 20, 2008

Nice Work!!

By James Garrett
May 20, 2008

Strong work! This route had the obvious name to lure someone like you who could go there and free it. I think it is great! I know George will be excited to hear the news!

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 21, 2008

Adding a second entry for the free version is perfect. Very nice work.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 21, 2008

And maybe you should name the free line "ChrisT Freed Me" :-)