Free Me (free) 5.13 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13 [details] |
| FA: | FFA - Chris Thomas 11/2007. George Rosenthal and Ted Coletti 1990 (Aid) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | christ on May 20, 2008 |
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Description A short, brutally thin seam that starts low on the Twilight Buttress. More of an RP-protected boulder problem than anything else. Jam and lieback the obvious seam past two fixed pins, using some small features on the face as well. The crux comes about a third of the way up, just before making a long move to an edge out right. Difficult to rate -- .13b or c, but some others should try it to consolidate the grade. A great route!
Location Start low on the twighlight buttress, off of a steep slope. There is a large boulder and pine tree just left of the start.
Protection Two fixed pins, small TCUs, and brass nuts. Lowe Balls are nice but not necessary. A bolt protects the mantel onto the slab at the top. Plese don't nail this route! It goes clean, whether aid or free.
| Comments on Free Me (free) |
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By christ May 20, 2008
| I realize that this route already exists in the database, but I thought that after the FFA it would be appropriate to add an entry for the free route as well. Anyone else have an opinion about this? I also considered just adding comments in the existing entry, but then if someone was searching for free routes it wouldn't show up. |
By James Garrett May 20, 2008
| Strong work! This route had the obvious name to lure someone like you who could go there and free it. I think it is great! I know George will be excited to hear the news! |
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 21, 2008
| Adding a second entry for the free version is perfect. Very nice work. |
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT May 21, 2008
| And maybe you should name the free line "ChrisT Freed Me" :-) |
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