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 ADVANCED
Right of the Escalator
Routes Sorted
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Axe of God T 
B.S. Arch T 
Breeze, The T 
Bullocks T 
Flatman Chimney T 
Free Lance T 
Hair Lip T 
Hot Buttered Rump T 
Jackal, The T 
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 
Philocetes' Bow T 
Poppycock Arch T 
Shadow, The T 

Free Lance 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Long and Brian Pottorff, November 1971
Page Views: 294
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Free Lance goes up the bolt line just to the right...

Description 

This is an enjoyable face climb, with intriguing footwork at the crux. As of 1999, a bolt had been added to this route, removing the "R" rating given to it in guidebooks. Climb the first few feet of The Shadow and then traverse right onto the face. Rappel from near the top.


Protection 

4 bolts, plus one or two small pieces for the initial crack, and gear for the anchor on top



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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 24, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This climb originally had only 3 bolts and older guidebooks reflected this fact. The newest guidebook (2001) shows 4 bolts, which indeed there are.

It's quite surprising that the added bolt (the topmost one) not only hasn't been chopped but surreptitiously made it's way into the newest guidebook and thus history.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Not to bad of a typical Suicide slabolicious environment...

By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This route felt pretty sustained at low 5.10. There was always at least one move between bolts that demanded concentration. The most difficult moves for me were just after passing the third bolt.

By johannsolo
From: So Cal
Jul 7, 2014

The "added" last bolt was placed too far to the left and is a little hard to clip. Great route though. The "Javelin" unprotected start goes up and left to get to the first bolt.