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Free For All 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA - Unknown. FFA - Ryan Bellow & Dave Bevan, 1992
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: Ryan Nevius on Jul 16, 2012  with updates from John Knight

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Closing out the day in style. Hard to beat the vie...


Climb past the undercling a couple of moves off the ground to a series of pockets and crimps. Reach high and left for the arete and pull onto it (the crux). Follow the technical grooves to the set of chains at the top of the route.


On the far right side of P-Wall, just to the left of Pump Floyd and to the right of La Leche.


8 bolts (replaced March 2015). The route is well-protected.

Photos of Free For All Slideshow Add Photo
11a/b lower section. Step up high, clip Bolt 1 and...
11a/b lower section. Step up high, clip Bolt 1 and...
Bolt replacement work (3/2015)
Bolt replacement work (3/2015)
Aaron F. getting it done.
Aaron F. getting it done.
looking good.
looking good.
Ryan making it look easy. I thought it looked like...
Ryan making it look easy. I thought it looked like...
Revised topo of far right side (aka Dark Side) of ...
BETA PHOTO: Revised topo of far right side (aka Dark Side) of ...

Comments on Free For All Add Comment
Show which comments
By Internet Hardman
Jul 20, 2012

Video or it didnt happen. : D
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 19, 2013

Yeah, I was gettin mixed up today. There are no longer bolts on the bottom (for the love of gawd do not get worked up over this). You pass a single one before joining the pump floyd line. Crux for me was a crank of a pretty shallow, right, two fingie pocket. The sidepull/undercling rail is sweet. Cool little route that should just be TRed from pump floyd now
By John Knight
Feb 23, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Bolt replacement for this route is still on my "To Do List". Looking for volunteers to help put these bolts back in. Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?
By ryan bello
Dec 1, 2013

The beginning of the route was an old aid ladder that stopped at the top of the fist face. The route went unknown from there. I climbed it only using the pockets straight up. The route then goes right towards the roof. You go out over the roof(crux) and way up to the top of the wall/ anchors. It was all about the pockets and roof.
By ryan bello
Dec 1, 2013

Oh...beware of bolt hacking...the same person has been doing it even when I was there. He was notorious for it and most climbers I knew (older and younger) did not hold this man in high regard. It appears he is still there... oh well..climb on.
By John Knight
2 days ago
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

In March of 2015, a group of local climbers finally replaced the lower lead bolts for Free for All. We were able to locate all of the old bolts that were previously removed (with the intent of replacing them) a few years ago. Personal note - it was about the same time I had back surgery and I was unable to get assistance from "real climbers" to help put them back in.

In any case, with one exception, all the bolts were placed within a few inches of their original location. Now for the Exception - after much debate, we decided to remove one of the lower bolts (and not replace it). It was too close to another bolt (about 18") and really not necessary for safety. May have even created a "zip clip" potential! The lower section now "sports" 5 new Fixe Triplex bolts. These can hold at least one Mack Truck. At bolt 6, the route joins Pump Floyd from some slightly runout (5.10a/b) climbing. The upper portion seemed to require more focus and mental gymnastics than the lower "sporty" section. Unless you do the original route over the Motor Mouth overhang, you will only need 8 draws, instead of 10.

After several "pinkpoints" of the "new" route, everyone seemed to agree that it was a great lead and a nice addition to the "heady" lead routes on the right side of P-Wall.

After reviewing Ryan Bello's info./notes and some old guidebooks, and seeing some recent pinkpoints, it appears that the lower section is somewhere around 5.11a/b and the roof is the crux at 5.11c(per Ryan Bello). Aaron F. and I will go replace those bolts and hopefully Aaron can send it and we can confirm the grade for the whole enchilada. Everyone I know just stops at the Pump Floyd chains and skips the 11c roof. IF you know someone that can grade the roof, let me know and I will adjust the topo.

Happy Climbing!
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