Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up
||Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Chris Gill - FFA Free Finale, Jim Surette - FFA Mordor Roof, Bayard Russell, Elliot Gaddy and Dana Drummond - link up|
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|Submitted By: ||bayard russell jr on Aug 15, 2008|
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When the Pendulum tree dies we'll still be able to get up on the big wall. Lots of great climbing out on the best part of the cliff, airy and clean.
Start up Standard and head right onto Diagonal and belay on the block at two bolts and tat. Head right onto Free Finale's 5.12a traverse pitch, either belay at that pitch's two bolt anchor at a two inch stance known as Freak-out Ledge, or keep climbing. Fifteen feet of 5.11c face climbing, pin, straight right gains the bottom of a 5.10a finger crack on the Mordor Wall. Follow to the Sidewalk Ledge below the Mordor Roof. Great climbing up to and out the roof, 5.11d, and one more pitch of easy climbing to the woods. I placed the pin connecting the two routes from a free stance on lead, but I forgot the hammer. For some reason I had a wrench though... I've since gone back with a hammer and made it nice.
The gear is all good, a mixture of bolts, pins and cracks, bring the whole rack for the Mordor Roof.
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