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Routes in The Lower Tier
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Beer Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Botonga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brace for Impact T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Canine Corner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Faulk You T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Free at Last T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Git 'Er Done S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hound's Tooth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Leave No Trace T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Like a Wonk T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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March Madness S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Munchkin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quick Work S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Release the Kraken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tinnitus S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Where's Ron S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wonky T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Bruno Haché , Ron Olsen, and Greg Hand, 4/29/07. |
| Page Views: | 932 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Bruno Hache on Apr 29, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This route climbs the prominent V-dihedral high on the wall, 20 feet right of Leave No Trace.
Start from the trail, directly below the dihedral, and just left of a cedar tree that's about 50 feet above the trail. Climb up slabby rock steps, placing gear and passing one bolt, to the base of the steep dihedral. The climbing in this initial section is mostly easy, with perhaps one 5.6-5.7 move along the way. There are some runouts on easy ground getting to the crux dihedral.
Clip a bolt on the left wall of the dihedral and prepare for "the business". The third bolt (second bolt in the dihedral) is the crux. Move to your right on the face to avoid the sand bag in the corner on the left. High-quality technical moves with a counter-intuitive "down-move" brings you to a key sharp quartzite intrusion. The top dihedral is worth 3.5 stars but is downrated due to the easy start.
Lower from an anchor at the top of the dihedral (70 m rope required). There is no stance at this anchor; it is meant for lowering only. It might be possible to lower with a 60m rope if you scramble up to a shelf about 20' above the trail, and belay from here.
If you only have a 60m rope and want to belay from the top, continue up another 20 feet to the anchor atop the second pitch of Like a Wonk. Belay from here on a decent ledge. From this higher anchor, two rappels will get you back down. Do the first rappel to the anchor on Botonga/Leave No Trace. From here, rappel to the ground.
Start from the trail, directly below the dihedral, and just left of a cedar tree that's about 50 feet above the trail. Climb up slabby rock steps, placing gear and passing one bolt, to the base of the steep dihedral. The climbing in this initial section is mostly easy, with perhaps one 5.6-5.7 move along the way. There are some runouts on easy ground getting to the crux dihedral.
Clip a bolt on the left wall of the dihedral and prepare for "the business". The third bolt (second bolt in the dihedral) is the crux. Move to your right on the face to avoid the sand bag in the corner on the left. High-quality technical moves with a counter-intuitive "down-move" brings you to a key sharp quartzite intrusion. The top dihedral is worth 3.5 stars but is downrated due to the easy start.
Lower from an anchor at the top of the dihedral (70 m rope required). There is no stance at this anchor; it is meant for lowering only. It might be possible to lower with a 60m rope if you scramble up to a shelf about 20' above the trail, and belay from here.
If you only have a 60m rope and want to belay from the top, continue up another 20 feet to the anchor atop the second pitch of Like a Wonk. Belay from here on a decent ledge. From this higher anchor, two rappels will get you back down. Do the first rappel to the anchor on Botonga/Leave No Trace. From here, rappel to the ground.
Location
This route starts about 20 feet right of Leave No Trace and just left of a big cedar tree that's about 50 feet above the trail. The objective is the prominent V-dihedral above and left of the cedar tree.
Photos
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