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South and East Faces
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker Land 
Best Crack in Minnesota 
Bon Homme Variation 
Cave 
Dancing With The Devils After Dark 
Direct Southeast 
Double Indemnity 
Dusk In Dogtown 
El Cracko Diablo 
Extension 
Free Association 
Hollywood & Vine 
interesting problem below, The 
Let Me Go Wild 
Roach Addition 
Rocksuckers 
Soler 
Soler Eclipse 
Space Ranger 
TAD 
Walt Bailey 
Windex 
Window (Free), The 
Unsorted Routes:

Free Association 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Walker, Frank Sanders
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: john walker on Mar 24, 2004
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Description 

This was the first free ascent of the 3rd pitch of The Devil Made Me Do It-A1. Pitch starts under large roof, climb crack with some face holds passing roof on left 5.10. climb up to foot traverse and go left to corner, climb dirty lichenous corner, sort of crumbly but good jams in the back of the crack, wear gloves. At about half way you climb over 5 meters of loose flakes, this is the psychological crux and is quite scary. As others have mentioned the top 1/3 of the tower is eroded and crumbly when compared to the lower 2/3. There is a lot of dirt, lichen and loose rock up there, it is climbable and even enjoyable but different than the sinker jams of more popular routes.


Protection 

Take a standard rack with extra hexes (I used 3 #10 hexes) or large cams, Metolius TCUs and Aliens, #1-3 Camalots, Wild Country cams up to #5. Bring the iron if you want to do the first two pitches, standard rack, angles, peckers, blades, rurps, hooks, all that shit.



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