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 ADVANCED
South and East Faces
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker Land T 
Best Crack in Minnesota T 
Bon Homme Variation T 
Cave T 
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 
Direct Southeast T 
Double Indemnity T 
Dusk In Dogtown T 
El Cracko Diablo T 
Extension T 
Free Association T 
Hollywood & Vine T 
interesting problem below, The T 
Let Me Go Wild T 
Roach Addition T,S 
Rocksuckers S 
Soler T 
Soler Eclipse S 
Space Ranger T 
TAD T 
Walt Bailey T 
Windex T 
Window (Free), The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Free Association 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Walker, Frank Sanders
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: john walker on Mar 24, 2004

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Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was the first free ascent of the 3rd pitch of The Devil Made Me Do It-A1. Pitch starts under large roof, climb crack with some face holds passing roof on left 5.10. climb up to foot traverse and go left to corner, climb dirty lichenous corner, sort of crumbly but good jams in the back of the crack, wear gloves. At about half way you climb over 5 meters of loose flakes, this is the psychological crux and is quite scary. As others have mentioned the top 1/3 of the tower is eroded and crumbly when compared to the lower 2/3. There is a lot of dirt, lichen and loose rock up there, it is climbable and even enjoyable but different than the sinker jams of more popular routes.

Protection 

Take a standard rack with extra hexes (I used 3 #10 hexes) or large cams, Metolius TCUs and Aliens, #1-3 Camalots, Wild Country cams up to #5. Bring the iron if you want to do the first two pitches, standard rack, angles, peckers, blades, rurps, hooks, all that shit.


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