Start to the right of "Wish Sandwich" and climb. P1 starts by linking discontinuos cracks until you get to the nice left facing corner (might be the crux but you are having too much fun to notice). At about 170 feet belay on a nice three bolt belay on a ledge. P2: slab climb past three bolts (crux) to join a left facing corner. Plug gear until you reach the single bolt. Back this up with a few pieces. P3: Climb up the remainder of the corner and turn it to gain a low angle slab (no protection) for about 30 or 40 feet. Belay on a nice ledge with two bolts. 3rd class up or climb one of the other pitches that lead to the top from this ledge. P2 and P3 can be combined into one but rope drag sucks and the rope runs over a nice little edge that I wouldn't want to fall on.
Right of Wish Sandwich.
Pitch 3 , with belay shown
going right and up to the ledge on pitch 3
|Comments on Free and Easy
From: Atascadero, CA
Oct 26, 2013
Good climb. If you start from the bottom of the buttress, where there is a crack about 10 feet up, the first pitch is approximately 215 feet. You can start higher up, but for full value, start at the bottom. And use a 70 meter rope.
|By J. Albers|
Oct 27, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Agreed Frank. You do need to start a ways up to the right in order to make the first pitch work with a 60m rope. The description for Wish Sandwich is even worse because that does start further down the cliff and it is still listed as a 200 foot pitch. I had to simul-climb about 20 feet (with a 70m rope) so that my partner could reach the belay.
|By Matt N|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 12, 2014
You also cannot combine P2/3 with a 60m as I found out (I was wondering WTF that bolt was doing next to a solid cam placement - oh a, belay - oops passed that one).
Not sustained at all, I'd give it a 5.7- if MP let me, but a nice climb.