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North Stars Wall
Routes Sorted
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Black Magic T 
Break it Out T 
Childhood's Beginning  T 
Childhood's End T 
Free and Easy  T 
Ice Pirates  S 

Free and Easy  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 619
Submitted By: urs on Aug 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: A closer shot of Free and Easy 5.6 and shows a cle...

Description 

This holds one of the most cleanest and spectacular dihedrals in Donner Summit. Beautiful hand jams solid feet make this 5.10 looking dihedral 5.6. The downside is that the dihedral section is only about 15ft high and the rest of the route only gets one star.
If only the dihedral section was a hundred foot route, this would probally be one of the best climbs.

Location 

This is located to the far right of Childhood's Beginning and has and ok start into a 4 star dihedral hand crack.

Protection 

Thin pieces with some TCU's for the bottom. The dihedral takes small cams up to 2 inches. Same as the other routes, there is no bolted anchor.


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By Willoughby
Aug 20, 2009

FYI, the first 2/3 of the route don't offer a lot of protection for the aspiring 5.6 leader.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 2, 2012

Fun climbing. It has somewhat of a bouldery, unprotected start the way I did it. Intermittent protection, so, yes, you would essentially want to be comfortable with soloing 5.6 to lead this. The dihedral crack is so money. If it went for a 100' this would be a moderate leader's wet dream.