|47 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.6 [details]|
|FA: ||T. Bubb & Micah Isaac, 6/26/11|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces North|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jun 30, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: Free Advice starts 10' down below the apparent fla...
Free Advice is usually worth every penny you pay for it, and in this case it was no exception. There is nothing wrong with this climb, but it's not a route to line up for either. Do it if you are in the area and think of it as a freebee.
The route crux may be getting up off the ground on a horizontal (big jugs) and to a second horizontal slightly above - which becomes a right-angling, curving, upward-pointing flake.
Pull onto the face through the two horizontals, which is the awkward crux. Continue up and right on the flake, placing cams and stoppers in its thicker points for security, and climb off into a slot to the right. You will end up in a cool slot/chimney system from which a small amount of wandering and scrambling will return you to the ground just West of the base where you started.
The gear for this route is primarily small cams and medium stoppers.
This route is one of 3 routes in a short section of the 'Central' area of the North Face of the Third Advisor, perhaps a bit over a hundred yards down from the Summit Arete. The landmarks are as follows: You are eye-level with the notch between The Goose and the Fern Canyon Rocks to the North. There is a HUGE and fully intact pine tree, perhaps 50' tall a few meters away from the base of this area. There is a small, live pine, about 10' tall growing against eh base of the wall in the inset containing the 3 routes here, and an an attractive overhanging face just to the right of these with 2 strong yellow stripes. Lastly, almost due North a hundred yards there is a massive boulder in the woods with a solid and clean East face. It probably deserves its own visit!