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Phil contemplating the last 18 ft to the anchors.
This climb has a terrific variety of novel climbing on fantastic rock. Steep face moves, barndoor liebacking, and a runout mantle will help you remember the first pitch. Rappel from here, or continue up past three bolts to easier ground.
bolts and small gear
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Mar 11, 2006
Certainly a standard for the grade of 5.11- face climbing. This is no give-away as it is cerebral and somewhat sustained. Originally rated 10d
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 12, 2006
I seem to remember the rock being quite smooth in the upper reaches of P1. An excellent technical exercise.
|By Brandon R.|
From: San Mateo, CA
Sep 17, 2006
The second pitch looks good, but the bolts are pretty old. It'd be great if some kind soul with bolting skills replaced them.
|By Bruce Diffenbaugh|
Feb 12, 2008
I'll go with the Original rating 10d but can feel harder at times.As for the pro.The bolts have needed replacement for sometime.Maybe this summer.
From: La Jolla
Sep 7, 2009
The second pitch bolts still look pretty sketchy. On the first pitch be solid on multiple mantles 5-10 feet above bolts. Good planning is required to move through sustained moves. 5 star classic in my book.
Feb 2, 2010
Got crossed-up in the left trending .10c section on P-1. Lunged big-time and stuck the horizontal with a couple tips - Whew! - mantled-up and made the belay with my hair on fire. We enjoyed both pitches.
Rated .10d at the time.
May 10, 2011
The beginning of this route requires a super tiny cam. Silver TCU or Black Diamond 00 or 000. Otherwise don't mess up! Climbed this thing in the rain and heavy fog last weekend. What an experience!
|By Randy in Ridgecrest|
From: Inyokern, CA
Jan 3, 2013
Brass nut for low, doesn't "require" tiny cams, unless the crack has changed in the last 15 years. A green Alien goes in perfect a little higher.
Watch the sun angle or you'll be blinded making for the mantle at the top of the first pitch.