Fred 5.11a
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Charles Cole and Randy Vogel, 1981 |
| Submitted By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 |
| |
Phil contemplating the last 18 ft to the anchors.
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Description This climb has a terrific variety of novel climbing on fantastic rock. Steep face moves, barndoor liebacking, and a runout mantle will help you remember the first pitch. Rappel from here, or continue up past three bolts to easier ground.
Protection bolts and small gear
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 11, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b
| Certainly a standard for the grade of 5.11- face climbing. This is no give-away as it is cerebral and somewhat sustained. Originally rated 10d |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 12, 2006
| I seem to remember the rock being quite smooth in the upper reaches of P1. An excellent technical exercise. |
By Brandon R.
From: San Mateo, CA
Sep 17, 2006
| The second pitch looks good, but the bolts are pretty old. It'd be great if some kind soul with bolting skills replaced them. |
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008
rating: 5.10d
| I'll go with the Original rating 10d but can feel harder at times.As for the pro.The bolts have needed replacement for sometime.Maybe this summer. |
By EliotAC
From: La Jolla
Sep 7, 2009
| The second pitch bolts still look pretty sketchy. On the first pitch be solid on multiple mantles 5-10 feet above bolts. Good planning is required to move through sustained moves. 5 star classic in my book. |
By Souljah
Feb 2, 2010
| Got crossed-up in the left trending .10c section on P-1. Lunged big-time and stuck the horizontal with a couple tips - Whew! - mantled-up and made the belay with my hair on fire. We enjoyed both pitches.
Rated .10d at the time. |
By Muff
May 10, 2011
| The beginning of this route requires a super tiny cam. Silver TCU or Black Diamond 00 or 000. Otherwise don't mess up! Climbed this thing in the rain and heavy fog last weekend. What an experience! |
By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Jan 3, 2013
rating: 5.11a
| Brass nut for low, doesn't "require" tiny cams, unless the crack has changed in the last 15 years. A green Alien goes in perfect a little higher.
Watch the sun angle or you'll be blinded making for the mantle at the top of the first pitch. |
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