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Fred the Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Aaron Lucas on Aug 19, 2007
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Description 

Fred the crack starts out as a ugly tour of vegetation in a gully. When it is reasonable to head right, go to the flat ledge and climb the hand to fist crack straight up. When your feet are at the chockstone, go left up the thin crack because you are out of big gear.

This middle of Fred was kind of fun.

The descent is entertaining. We used some old slings on a ledge to rappel to the base on the right of the start.


Location 

This climb is on the Sunshine Wall. To reach it, park in the larger parking lot and follow an obvious trail. When the trail is fairly level and straight, start looking for a trail that takes-off to the left. Scramble off to the left over some logs. Find a dirty looking gully with lots of plant life. To the left is a scary runout 5.11 with a few bolts.


Protection 

This climb takes several large cams BD #3 to #5. You will also want some smaller gear if you head off left after the wide section. Make sure and sling the chockstone in the middle.



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