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Sunset Boulevard
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3-move arete (aka Nice Moves) 
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Fred Nicole Project (sit-start) 

Hueco: V8+ Font: 7B+

   
Type: Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V9- Font: 7C [details]
FA: None yet
Page Views: 705
Submitted By: andy patterson on Jan 17, 2012
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Nearing the last move: a deadpoint to small patina...

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Description 

A mere three moves longer than the stand-start, but stupidly burl. Save the skin, wait for good friction. Otherwise, pull hard off the starting hole, snag the two-finger pocket, then choose which sloping crimps to use. Top-out isn't too technical, just physical.


Location 

Just around the corner from Fritz Bulge. Starts in a hole at the left-bottom of the steep overhang.


Protection 

Pad.



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By Bob Banks
Jan 18, 2012

It should be noted that the two-finger pocket was seriously enhanced at some point a few years ago. It was originally a first pad two-finger undercling pocket and I cringe at the thought of pulling into it from the start move, hence the Fred Nicole moniker. Nowadays, it's not even remotely close to what it was back then. Actually, it's an insult to Fred Nicole now.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 18, 2012

I agree: that pocket used to be worse, and now it is a large and sandy pit. Fred Nicole would scoff indeed. The top is still hard, but not as hard as it might have been I suppose.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jun 11, 2012
rating: V9 7C

What about direct? Meaning just going up from the rail and small gastonish thing instead of moving to the right, like in the photo. Its a low angle dyno.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 17, 2012

Yeah, that works too. For some reason, traversing in to it made the sequence out right feel easier. Either way, I kinda lost skin and psyche so climbed elsewhere. Now that it's been sent, I'd love to go back, however, and see how things work.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jun 17, 2012
rating: V9 7C

Traversing to the right holds seemed a bit easier, but I liked the huge move going straight up so I did it that way. My grade reflects that, Fred Nicole Proj Direct, haha. Anyways am I the only accent known?

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 18, 2012

As far as I know. Claim it, man. Good work! I know a guy who cleaned it and tried it a few years ago and he was stupid strong, but I can't remember if he did it or not. If a "secret ascentionist" comes out of the woodwork, so be it.