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Cabin Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack 
Better Left Undone 
Cowboy Justice 
Four-Wheel Low 
Fred and Barney's Crack 
Junk Corner 
Left Horseshoe Finger 
Left-facing Corner (unknown) 
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner 
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station 
Rednekk Justus 
Right Horseshoe Finger 
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) 
S Crack 
TH Crack 
Three Blocks 
Unknown Awkward 
Unknown Finger Crack 
Unknown Fingers 
Unknown Flake 
Willy's Hand Jive 

Fred and Barney's Crack 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,010
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 9, 2011
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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This is a good route on great rock that offers varied climbing. Start with tight hands through a small bulge to gain the awkward dihedral and move out past the wide, small roof.


The route is at the top of the trail leading to the buttress. It is 200 feet to the climber's right of Rednekk Justus.


Doubles or triples of #1s, #2s. Triples of #3. Single of #4. There are anchors on the ledge. Extend your anchor past lip if toproping.

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By slim
Mar 9, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Fred and Barney's Crack. I think original Desert Rock gave it 5.10. My notes say 10c. A good, friendly intro to climbing at Escalante.

By jeffro popko
From: montrose,co
Mar 24, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The roof turn on this one gives it the third star, very exciting when you're already pumped.

By Mitch Musci
Oct 13, 2012

This is a fantastic climb, but the pro mid-pitch is behind a detached flake for at least 2 consecutive placements. Not a great choice for those breaking into 5.10, but it is nonetheless a worthy line with cool movement.