This is a good route on great rock that offers varied climbing. Start with tight hands through a small bulge to gain the awkward dihedral and move out past the wide, small roof.
The route is at the top of the trail leading to the buttress. It is 200 feet to the climber's right of Rednekk Justus.
Doubles or triples of #1s, #2s. Triples of #3. Single of #4. There are anchors on the ledge. Extend your anchor past lip if toproping.
Mar 9, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Fred and Barney's Crack. I think original Desert Rock gave it 5.10. My notes say 10c. A good, friendly intro to climbing at Escalante.
|By jeffro popko|
Mar 24, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
The roof turn on this one gives it the third star, very exciting when you're already pumped.
|By Mitch Musci|
Oct 13, 2012
This is a fantastic climb, but the pro mid-pitch is behind a detached flake for at least 2 consecutive placements. Not a great choice for those breaking into 5.10, but it is nonetheless a worthy line with cool movement.