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 ADVANCED
RPM Wall
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Freakie Stylie 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Matt TeNgaio/Tom Smartt
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Matt TeNgaio on Jun 18, 2007

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Description 

Clip stick the first bolt, then climb right leaning, almost horizontal seam/flake to third bolt. Then up through a series of small crimps and end on Fixe sport anchors.

There is a direct vairation to this route that has been done on lead with the first bolt, (which is very high), sticked clipped. Plans are to add a new first bolt lower on the route.

Location 

Located up past the Upper Wall on a small but beautifully streaked section of rock.

Protection 

4 Bolts. Fixe sport anchors.


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By tsmartt
Jul 19, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

there is a direct start. either from the right, or below. bumps the grade a tad.