Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Andrew Gomoll, Sandra Horna, Larry DeAngelo |
Page Views: | 1,149 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Jun 4, 2008 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
From the start of Dodgeball, scramble up a hundred or two feet of third class to a belay at the base of the main corner. Rope up here. The corner immediately becomes an interesting, smooth squeeze chimney. Shortly above the chimney, the main corner branches, with a smaller, subsidiary corner splitting off to the left. Pull over a small bulge and climb the left-facing corner to a small stance at its top.
Continue up the corner system with much questionable rock. Above a short offwidth section, the crack ends beneath a towering fin of rock. The faint of heart or strong of mind might take this opportunity to step right and continue up the right-facing corner near the top of Dodgeball. The alternative is face climbing directly above on the runout slab. This would be a thought-provoking lead even if the rock were solid and the lichen absent. In light of the actual conditions, the lead is positively engrossing. Above the fin, climb up and right on easy terrain to the top of the buttress. Descend as for Dodgeball.
Continue up the corner system with much questionable rock. Above a short offwidth section, the crack ends beneath a towering fin of rock. The faint of heart or strong of mind might take this opportunity to step right and continue up the right-facing corner near the top of Dodgeball. The alternative is face climbing directly above on the runout slab. This would be a thought-provoking lead even if the rock were solid and the lichen absent. In light of the actual conditions, the lead is positively engrossing. Above the fin, climb up and right on easy terrain to the top of the buttress. Descend as for Dodgeball.
Location
This route is up and left from the main Lotta Balls Wall, on the left side of the buttress with Kick in the Balls and Dodgeball.
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