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All Locations >
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Lover's Leap
> Main Formation
> Main Wall
Freak Show
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 15
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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Absolutely Billy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Batman's Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deadpool T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eeyore's Ecstacy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Travelin' Man T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yankee Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Jay Smith |
| Page Views: | 3,974 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Dec 2, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Begin climbing up Eeyores Enigma keeping an eye out for the crack splitting the overhanging wall to the right. Transfer into the overhanging crack as soon as you can (about 40ft up). Tight fingers, pumpy off hands, thin feet and bomber jams are what you can expect on your way up this route. Just before your palms pump out from the jams, the route turns into a fierce lieback past a bomber pin to the chains. The gear on this route is absolutely bomber the whole way.
While at the chains, take the opportunity to traverse out right for two more pitches and climb the route Under the Big Top (5.10d).
While at the chains, take the opportunity to traverse out right for two more pitches and climb the route Under the Big Top (5.10d).
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