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Middle East Wall
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Electric Shock T 
Fisting for Pleasure and Profit T 
Focal Point S 
Freak of the Week T 
Human Sacrifice S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Freak of the Week 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bill Robins, FFA Jim Yoder
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Ethan Henderson on Dec 1, 2011

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Plugging black aliens at the start

Description 

Start up a dihedral like feature face climbing and using the very thin crack for protection.

Pull over the easy roof/bulge this will deposit you on a small ledge.

From this ledge continue up the thin crack using jams, face holds and laybacks. There are plenty of good rests/stances along the way. About 2/3 of the way up this you will encounter the crux moves which involve a layback/jam and some face moves.


Location 

Before you hit the "main" part of the wall look for a small roof leading to a very thin crack with a chain anchor on top.


Protection 

Gear to 1.5" mostly smaller.

Make sure to include micro cams (black/blue Alien)

Chain anchor (Easily reached from above to TR/Rap)



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