Start underneath the far right side of the chockstone (see Post Road), and climb up into a small, left-facing corner. After you pass a small bulge to the right, begin traversing (if you traverse higher at the large horizontal it will be slightly harder, doable, but if short may be doing blind cam placements). Continue to traverse and move up until underneath another left-facing corner (this felt like the crux to me). Climb up this left-facing corner to the large ledge, and then finish up somewhat easier climbing on the face to the right.
It took a few nuts low before the traverse, then finger/hand-sized cams for the rest (there is one old nasty pin at the top left-facing corner that can be clipped, but I backed it up after). It protects pretty well.
|Comments on Franny's Folly
From: Worcester, MA
Jan 3, 2012
One of my favorite face climbs at Crow... good for the grade with nice movement on good holds the whole way!
Nov 24, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Franny's Folly Direct (5.10a/b) is a fun and challenging variation to Franny's Folly. Head up to the broad white streak under an overhang directly below Franny's Folly finishing left-facing corner. The line is clearly evident from Barrett's excellent route photo.
Surmount the overhang and finish straight up through LF corner. I have always top roped it. Might be a dicey lead although there is a horizontal above the overhang that is reachable from below that would take a good, medium-sized cam.