Frank's Wild Years 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Hank Caylor, Wayne Crill, Kevin Gallagher, and Jimmy Menendez |
| Season: | Winter |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Apr 14, 2008 |
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My friend Moose standing beneath Frank's Wild Year...
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Description After the album by the amazing and legendary Tom Waits...
The leftmost of the three main lines, Frank's Wild Years climbs a crack just left of the prow to a pumpy rising hand traverse. This leads to a cramped rest in the corner, and then the crux -- a few campus moves on jugs. There is an unclippable fixed wire here that is designed to keep the rope out of the crack -- please do not remove it. Above this a no hands rest preceeds a final awkward lieback up slightly lower quality rock to a bolted anchor.
Protection Double set of cams, wires, and a very small cam (blue Alien was almost too big) protects the crux well.
Top half of Frank's Wild Years.
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Alex looking at Frank's Wild Years.
Photo: Copyri...
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The lower part. Lots of finger locks.
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The only "good" rest on the lower section.
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| Comments on Frank's Wild Years |
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008
| First half fun and weird. bit loose getting to the anchors, the route could have ended at the ledge. But I won't complain going another 15 feet over the awkward bulge. |
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11
| My understanding was that the inception, conception, and FA of this route was 100% Mr. Hankey. |
By Brett Brotherton
From: Arvada, CO
Mar 12, 2011
| The fixed stopper to keep the rope out of the crack is gone! I was able to reach down from the ledge and plug a red C3 in there to keep the rope out of the crack. Definitely need something in there otherwise that crack eats the rope. |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2011
| Cool route. I used a lot of red Alien/purple Camalot size and two blue Alien-sized pieces. Right before the fixed cam at the crux a red C3 is bombproof (inches below that piece). Kinda strange that the route forces you back onto the right face after that chimney rest but it adds another 30 feet of splitter crack, so why not?!? Really fun. |
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