This was named after the album by the amazing and legendary Tom Waits....
The leftmost of the three main lines, Frank's Wild Years climbs a crack just left of the prow to a pumpy rising hand traverse. This leads to a cramped rest in the corner, and then the crux -- a few campus moves on jugs. There is an unclippable fixed wire here that is designed to keep the rope out of the crack -- please do not remove it. Above this a no hands rest preceeds a final awkward lieback up slightly lower quality rock to a bolted anchor.
Double set of cams, wires, and a very small cam (blue Alien was almost too big) protects the crux well.
The fixed stopper to keep the rope out of the crack is gone! I was able to reach down from the ledge and plug a red C3 in there to keep the rope out of the crack. Definitely need something in there otherwise that crack eats the rope.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Golden, CO Mar 31, 2011
Cool route. I used a lot of red Alien/purple Camalot size and two blue Alien-sized pieces. Right before the fixed cam at the crux a red C3 is bombproof (inches below that piece). Kinda strange that the route forces you back onto the right face after that chimney rest but it adds another 30 feet of splitter crack, so why not?!? Really fun.
By Brent Butler From: Del Norte, CO Sep 25, 2013 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-E3 5c
The bottom portion of this route is VERY good. Great, sustained finger locks. The top portion is also pretty fun but leaves a little to be desired because of the ledge. This is definitely an area classic, one of the best cracks @ the grade in the Front Range for sure.
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Nov 6, 2013 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-E3 5c
Tough warm-up. Awesome route though. Doubles up to 0.5 (including C3s or equivalent) is sufficient with stoppers and single #1 and #2. This is a pretty great route at the grade, and the name is great - awesome record/song.