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The Quarry Wall
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Frank's Wild Years 
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Unsorted Routes:

Frank's Wild Years 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Hank Caylor, Wayne Crill, Kevin Gallagher, and Jimmy Menendez
Season: Winter
Page Views: 3,530
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 14, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Alex looking at Frank's Wild Years.

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Description 

This was named after the album by the amazing and legendary Tom Waits....

The leftmost of the three main lines, Frank's Wild Years climbs a crack just left of the prow to a pumpy rising hand traverse. This leads to a cramped rest in the corner, and then the crux -- a few campus moves on jugs. There is an unclippable fixed wire here that is designed to keep the rope out of the crack -- please do not remove it. Above this a no hands rest preceeds a final awkward lieback up slightly lower quality rock to a bolted anchor.


Protection 

Double set of cams, wires, and a very small cam (blue Alien was almost too big) protects the crux well.



Photos of Frank's Wild Years Slideshow Add Photo
The lower part.  Lots of finger locks.
The lower part. Lots of finger locks.
Top half of Frank's Wild Years.
Top half of Frank's Wild Years.
My friend Moose standing beneath Frank's Wild Years.
My friend Moose standing beneath Frank's Wild Year...
The only "good" rest on the lower section.
The only "good" rest on the lower section.
Comments on Frank's Wild Years Add Comment
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008

First half fun and weird. bit loose getting to the anchors, the route could have ended at the ledge. But I won't complain going another 15 feet over the awkward bulge.

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

My understanding was that the inception, conception, and FA of this route was 100% Mr. Hankey.

By Brett Brotherton
From: Arvada, CO
Mar 12, 2011

The fixed stopper to keep the rope out of the crack is gone! I was able to reach down from the ledge and plug a red C3 in there to keep the rope out of the crack. Definitely need something in there otherwise that crack eats the rope.

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Mar 31, 2011

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2011

Cool route. I used a lot of red Alien/purple Camalot size and two blue Alien-sized pieces. Right before the fixed cam at the crux a red C3 is bombproof (inches below that piece). Kinda strange that the route forces you back onto the right face after that chimney rest but it adds another 30 feet of splitter crack, so why not?!? Really fun.

By Brent Butler
From: Del Norte, CO
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

The bottom portion of this route is VERY good. Great, sustained finger locks. The top portion is also pretty fun but leaves a little to be desired because of the ledge. This is definitely an area classic, one of the best cracks @ the grade in the Front Range for sure.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Tough warm-up. Awesome route though. Doubles up to 0.5 (including C3s or equivalent) is sufficient with stoppers and single #1 and #2. This is a pretty great route at the grade, and the name is great - awesome record/song.