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Frank's Tame Years 

5.11a

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
FA: Joseph Crotty and Mike Cichon Winter, 2008
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Joseph P. Crotty on Jul 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Pulling the crux after the rest. Photo by Lukas Hi...

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Description 

This has mostly good hands and a move or two of .10a where it pinches down. Join with Frank's Wild Years where it cuts back right (i.e., .11a/b).


Location 

Start 30' left of Frank's Wild Years. Climb the 5.10 hand crack in the right-facing corner and join with Frank's Wild Years.


Protection 

SR with a few extra hand-sized pieces.



Photos of Frank's Tame Years Slideshow Add Photo
Coming out of the rest. Photo by Lukas Hill.

Coming out of the rest. Photo by Lukas Hill.

Pressing up to the ledge. Photo by Lukas Hill.

Pressing up to the ledge. Photo by Lukas Hill.


Comments on Frank's Tame Years Add Comment
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By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.11a

This route really has some varied climbing and not *that* many good hand jams. Like most of the Quarry, the rock is flaring and a little odd. Gear is great though. Single rack to #3 with extra purple to gold Camalots sews it up. The only significant detractor is the last bit of climbing above the final crux on pretty crappy rock. A few slings are nice for the traverse section, and you can double up gear on the upper crux to make sure you stay off the ledge.

A fixed purple TCU sits at the "campus" crux. It's been there a while but seems solid. You can back it up if you like.