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There are a lot of good holds for hands and really good feet for most of the route.
The route starts on the right hand side of the back of Sugar Loaf (facing away from the river)with a low bolt. Climb to the top and clip the chains, rappel down.
There are 5 bolts, 4 are new. 4-5 quickdraws are recommended depending on skill level.
BETA PHOTO: The new route from bottom to top.
|Comments on Franklin's Tower
|By fat cow|
From: Salinas, CA
Jun 14, 2010
what about the other route eh, wonder what its called
|By Nathan Migdal|
From: Bloomington, mn
Jul 14, 2010
There has to be more routes on the sugar loaf... at least some trad potential. Until your post, I had never even heard about this formation. Looks promising, at least in the photos posted. Are there more than two established routes here?
|By Frank Hessler|
From: Winona, MN
Sep 2, 2010
There are a few bolted routes on the south side of the Sugarloaf. There is one classic bolted route on the rock, it is not very trad friendly. The north face is not accessible. East and west are not too good either.
From: Waukesha, WI
Oct 18, 2010
My parents recently moved into this area so we were visiting them for the weekend. Enjoyed climbing at sugar loaf this past Saturday. Climbed some of the bolted routes on the back. Fun times.
|By Todd Johnson|
Oct 25, 2013
I climbed here 25 years ago and put anchor bolts at the top of this route. We always called it optional protection as I have trad led it but with a huge runout. I always climbed it up and over the small roof to the left. The next line over to the left was Ouch (5.7) then Mesopotamia (5.6).