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Frankincense 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brandon Thau, 1996 (?)
Season: Spring - Mid Fall
Page Views: 1,113
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Jan 30, 2007

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just under the roof

Description 

Fun route easy beginning the crux is in the middle where it smooths out a little and the hands are up high and to the left. The roof is fun and offers just a little exposure. Perfect climb for beginners. Look out for the tree branches when you rap off.

Location 

Once down in the Lower Falls area look to your left (west) you will see a large oak tree. the climb is under the oak tree (think ALL day shade) The route follows the obvious crack to the roof in the middle of the formation. there is a bolted sport route just to the right (east)

Protection 

Small nuts and cams (1/2" to 2"), 2 bolts with rings at the top.


Photos of Frankincense Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the roof from the base of Frankincen...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the roof from the base of Frankincen...

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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The name of this route is Frankincense and it was probably first done by Brandon Thau around 1996 or so; the Mother Rock Guide to Frustration Creek (1998) includes this route.
By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Jan 7, 2011

Oh I figured as much. Thank you for clarifying Chris.
By Carlos Andres Baron
From: Bishop, California
Feb 3, 2011

fun and varied route. the pro can be a little interesting when the cracks get full of dirt
By cameron hollett
Jan 5, 2013

Awesome climb. My first trad climb, definitely would do again. After 2nd piece of pro it gets slabby. Near end of route was fun with a small section of hand crack.