Frankenwood 5.10a/b PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | David Evans on Jan 1, 2002 |
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The tall man sequence.
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Description The route starts with bouldery moves up a slightly right leaning dihedral. Pro looks a little awkward to place in the thin crack of the dihedral. Continue up easy scrambling moves to the base of a dike/lieback crack just left of a very easy finish. Lieback the crack past a crystal knob and a face move to the top. Easily TR'ed off the convenience anchor found at the top. Definitely worth climbing but maybe without the stress of being on lead!
Protection Standard rack to 2"
Yes, the arete has holds!
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"Stahl Brother" Todd in action.
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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 19, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| Don't bother with this one. |
By Drederek
Apr 6, 2009
| Climbed the great crack just to the left of this yesterday thinking that it was Frankenwood 5.7 as per Rock climbing joshua tree. It was an excellent 5.7. Not many 95 foot climbs at this grade here that give good value all the way to the top. 3 stars.
Guess we were on Norwegian wood! |
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Apr 25, 2010
| The Vogel Book of Lies claims another pair of unsuspecting saps.
Chossy as all hell on the top half. |
By Captain Fastrousers
From: Pasadena, CA
Apr 26, 2010
| Dihedral at the start is not bad climbing (but not 5.7 as the old guidebook suggests).
A shame that the upper section is all kinds of chossy though. |
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 24, 2012
| Make sure your 5.7 leader is good to 5.10 R and has an affinity for ball bearing pieces of kitty litter raining down on them while they pull sketch moves on suspect gear. If you are able to look beyond all that, this is a really easy 5.7 and a great warm up for the wall. |
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