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Frankenstein Ice Climbs

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Frankenstein Ice Climbs  


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Location: 44.15824, -71.36893 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 109,989
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 25, 2006
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Dracula left. Lauren Wilson.

Description 

The training grounds... Every Experienced ice climber in NH has spent time cutting their teeth at Frankenstein... It seem like it was designed for the sport, with routes of all grades within a short easy walk from the car... One might start out on Standard Route or one of the easy slabs on there first day out then realize that there is a route for every step of the progression from novice to the skill required to climb the hardest routes anywhere...
Far from the commitment required to climb on Cannon or Lake Willoughby Frankenstein is great for developing the skills on short routes so you have them to work with when you are ready to commit to something a little more uncertain...

Most routes are 1-2 pitches some maybe 3 and there really are routes of every grade... Some classics are Standard Route(3), Chia(3+), Pegasus(3+/4), Dracula(4+), Dropline(5), if things get crowded don't worry these classics are just the tip of the iceburg, look around and you will find more quality ice than you know what to do with... Most routes come in consistently though there are some that will only appear sporadically, you can normally count on having something to climb from December to March but hey we are in New Hampshire and weather is far from an exact science around here...

From the parking area you will hike along a railroad track and look for the ice up the hill on your left the first big ice you will see is Smear(3) a wide flow that can be thin in early season look for a steep ramp running up from right to left...This is followed by the Amphitheater which holds many quality lines... You can check Amphitheater conditions by looking over from the Trestle... Across the Trestle you will get to Standard Route Dracula Area and finally the Hanging Gardens... If you can't find something you like in any of these areas you simply don't like ice climbing...

The cliffs are north facing so plan on being in the shade unless you pick the right route and time it just right... Dress warm cause those belays can get pretty cold when the wind is whipping down the notch...

Getting There 

Located in Crawford Notch on Route 302

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.3 miles from here

29 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Frankenstein Ice Climbs:
Bob's Delight   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Amphitheater Area
Dripethusa   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   Arethusa Falls
Main Flow   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   Arethusa Falls
Welcome to the Machine   WI4-5     Ice   Dropline Area
Waterfall   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch   Standard Route Area
Standard Left   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Standard Route Area
Walk in the Forest   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   "In the Forest" Area
Without Reason   WI5+     Ice, 45'   Hanging Gardens
The Coffin   WI4+     Ice, 2 pitches, 150'   Dropline Area
Chia Direct   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch   Amphitheater Area
Standard Right   WI3-4     Ice, 2 pitches   Standard Route Area
Hobbit Couloir   WI4+     Ice, 200'   Amphitheater Area
Chia   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Amphitheater Area
Standard Route   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   Standard Route Area
Dropline   WI5     Ice   Dropline Area
Pegasus Rock Finish   WI3 M3     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Amphitheater Area
Smear   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch   Amphitheater Area
The Penguin   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches   Standard Route Area
Pegasus   WI3+     Ice, 200'   Amphitheater Area
Dracula   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Dropline Area
Browse More Classics in Frankenstein Ice Climbs

Featured Route For Frankenstein Ice Climbs
Jeff Darde on Pegasus: 1975

Pegasus WI3+  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : Amphitheater Area
Just a huge and beautiful chunk of ice... really aesthetic and fun...Pitch 1: Start up on the lower angle ice right below the obvious columns... Mostly easy climbing with a few bulges leads on to the base of the steep bussiness... Belay at the base of the pillars...Pitch 2: Climb the pillars which can vary from jug haul grade 3 to steep grade 4 depending on the conditions... Normally you can get between a couple of columns and stem up moderately... The top is right there, belay from trees next t...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Frankenstein Ice Climbs Slideshow Add Photo
PW and Ron at the Standard Route Belay
PW and Ron at the Standard Route Belay

Comments on Frankenstein Ice Climbs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joel Pastuszak
From: Concord, NH
Jun 17, 2007
I agree, I've heard great things about this area and was kind of dissapointed when there was't much info to speak of.
By reddirt
Mar 19, 2008
Frankenstein is to ice climbing what Stately Pleasure Dome is to rock climbing... practically drive though (ok, Frankenstein actually has a short approach, it's not quite fall out of your car & start belaying).

no sense in reinventing the wheel. More beta at neclimbs.com/index.php?PageNam...

also click around on neice.com, chauvinguides.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 19, 2008
hopefully this wheel will be better than the old one... i have nothing against the existing sites but i feel at home on the Proj...