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Army of Darkness Boulder
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Frankenspank 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: ben jammin on Dec 6, 2012

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Description 

Frankenspank is the obvious line up pockets and pinches facing E on the Monster Block boulder (see description below).

Sit start with a decent crimp. Move up and slightly left using pinches and some interesting pockets. Better holds are found after the first few moves. The crux comes right at you off the ground.


Location 

Frankenspank is actually located on the 'Monster Block Boulder' about 100 yds uphill from the Army of Darkness boulder. Since it only has one problem (the book says there are also two V4's but they look like choss so I'll let someone else add those, if they wish) I'm just going to add this under the AOD. This problem faces east and is the obvious chalked pockets under the overhang.

Protection 

pad


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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 14, 2012

MIYG-- Did you start sitting matched on the 'good' crimp down and right? I tried it this way and it seemed much harder than v7. It seemed more natural (at the grade) to start with the left hand elsewhere (like in the low pocket out left or somewhere above the crimp). Agreed that the difficulty quickly eases up, but the start is HARD!

Care to share some beta/thoughts? Any insight you can give would be appreciated!
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Dec 15, 2012

I was starting sitting with right hand on the crimp. I haven't worked it to extensively though. Seems like it would go with a stab with the left from the pinch.

Also, nice work. I was planning on adding a bunch of these problems.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 15, 2012

Originally, I tried it a bit that way as well. Right hand on the crimp, left hand on a weird, bad pinch above. Pulling off the ground and hitting the good pocket from there. I hit the pocket repeatedly but couldn't quite latch it, since it takes a fair amount of accuracy to actually stick it. That way certainly feels at least v7 and perhaps harder. Eventually I shifted to starting with the left hand in the low pocket and right hand on the crimp because I lost patience with the lack of accuracy on my original method. It's also arguable that those two holds are more 'obvious' starting points.

I was just hoping someone had some better clarity as to the 'official' starting holds since there's no real obvious starting point and all of the guidebook descriptions are quite vague.

Oh well, back to the original method, I guess.
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Dec 16, 2012

Well unless you can sit down with the left in the lower pocket I'm assuming the start is how it is described above. I always assume that the rating is sandbagged, as is the tradition of the area.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 20, 2012

I was indeed able to do it from a sit with the left in the pocket, right on the low edge/crimp. But, it's hard to say whether it felt v7 or easier. I'll go back to giving the alternative sit some goes as well and see how it feels, grade wise.

It's always a bit tough at Big Bend. While some of the high profile problems, like 'Hellbelly','Chaos', 'Circus Trick', etc. feel a bit sandbagged, I feel like most of the problems are pretty spot on for the grade. And there are several harder climbs that feel soft for the grade. Finding out the 'right' beta usually makes most of the Big Bend problems quite reasonable at the grade, though that process can often be frustrating and make things seem sandbagged!

We''ll have to climb together some time and compare notes!
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Dec 21, 2012

Interesting.. I'll have to take another look. I think your assessment of BB grades is a good one. I know I've had my frustrating moments working problems just to find a quick piece of beta and quickly put it all together. It would certainly be nice to climb with someone strong and figure out beta.

I'm wishing for POW this weekend in Telluride but after that, I'll be out there. Not many boulderer's in Moab so give me a shout if you head this way on a weekend.