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We felt the start up to the 1st bolt at about 12 feet was THE spookiest move. If one takes a screamer before that first piece of pro is in - they not only hit the deck but there is like a 12-18 inch space between the wall and the deck where one could easily drop down into off the ledge and tear up your shins and legs pretty good. It is kind of more of a 'mental game' on this one that actually physically difficult.
The Lower Left Wall of Pilot Knob Stewart's Ledge area, page 438 on the ADIRONDACK ROCK CLIMBER'S GUIDE by Jeremy Haas.
Solid double bolt anchors with rings at top. Great for setting up a solid top rope as well.
We rapped down.
Frankenpine is directly to the right of Lithium and directly to the right of it is a gully where one could scramble to the top pretty easily to set up top ropes and such.
NOTE: Please be careful - we climbed it in April and and saw a nest from Frankenpine of a Peregrine Falcon with 6 unhatched eggs in it with the falcon flying above us all day. PLEASE do not disturb! As I understand it - Peregrine Falcon's are on the New York State endangered species list!
The climb is almost directly inline with the 'fake pine tree' that actually is a CELL PHONE TOWER! It's quite ingenious! You can see that it is a different color than the other pine tree's and houses a light brown cell phone tower antenna near the top that is easily see from all over. We used this as out landmark to find the actual climbing wall.
Trad pro. 1 good chockstone above to loop a single runner around for bombproof pro. Also was able to get 1 small Stopper in (kind of sketchy) and because is has flaring cracks, got 3 cams in (2 BD Camalots (Sketchy) and 1 bombproof Metolius cam in.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Jul 30, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
To further clarify the route, it's between Lithium (5.10a/b) and the bolted line of The Entertainer (5.8). Wouldn't want anyone looking for a 5.6 lead getting on either of those by accident! [in the picture the rope appears to be on The Entertainer]