Climbing in the Frankenjura, Germany, photo: Bob H...
Home to the über famous Action Direct (9a). Also the birthplace of the Redpoint (Rotpunkt). Because of this, it's not surprising that this place is best known for hard sport climbing. It's sort of the anti-Elbsandstein; not that that's a bad thing!
There are over 10,000 known routes in this gigantic area, and some crags are very secluded, so you'll want to plan ahead before just cruising over.
It is possible to climb here year round. However, like most places, Spring and Fall are the best seasons. Summer climbing is possible since the north-facing crags are kept cooler by the trees. Winter climbing is possible by seeking out a south-facing wall, but generally unpleasant.
Also, the type of stone is limestone, and it is characterized as being very pocketed. The rock is anywhere from slabby (though often with sections which could be overhanging), to overhanging. Routes here are typically between 8 and 30 meters (~24-90 ft.), but some can be up to 40m long! The vast majority are 25m or less.
Beer gardens abound and there is never a shortage of good food to be found in any of the villages or small cities within the Frankenjura. Climbing is very popular here, so expect to meet other climbers at the crag, and don't be too surprised if some of the popular routes at the popular crags are a bit polished.
Here's a fantastic website with lots of information: www.climb.frankenjura.com/deutsch/index.php3 (EDIT: This website is still usefull for some information, but now requires paid membership to access the topos.)
From the same website:
Northern Frankenjura lies in southern Germany, specifically in Franconia (the northern part of Bavaria), and thus in the middle of Central Europe. The area is limited in the west by the city of Bamberg and the region Nuernberg-Fuerth-Erlangen. At its eastern edge are the cities Bayreuth and Amberg-Sulzbach.
There are a lot of motorways coming in from all directions: From north or south you will reach Frankenjura by using the A9, from Frankfurt is the A3, & from Heidelberg the A6. Coming from Tschechien (east), take the A6.
Climbing Terms in German
Here is a list of some climbing terms which may help you on a trip to the Frankenjura, Italy, or France: www.bergsport-kolb.de/download/alpines_woerterbuch_alle_spra>>>
Spring - often wonderful weather and not much rain. This season (from late March to early June) lends itself best to climbing in the Frankenjura. In the early part, you may suffer through steep hikes through dead leaves and it may be very cold, especially in the morning, and it may even still snow on you. Also, rock may be wet due to melting snow. However, there is surely another exposed area which is dry. Mid to late Spring is perfect.
Summer - In the early parts (early June through mid July) and then again near the beginning of Fall (September) you can have great conditions in the shade and under tree canopies. However, during the middle of Summer (mostly August) you can enjoy climbing easy and moderate routes and enjoying great beer gardens, but ticking off hard projects is practically impossible. The humidity causes you to just grease right off the holds.
Fall - Through most of Fall you can expect good climbing conditions. November, however, is notorious for being a rainy month. There are tons of overhanging crags which shelter you from the rain, but after weeks of it, even the most water resistant crags can get sopping wet.
Winter - Climbing in the Frankenjura during Winter is truly an art. It can be done, but dedicating a climbing trip to the Frankenjura during Winter is for the foolhardy. If you're naturally extremely lucky, please come visit and bring good weather with you. If not, fly to Turkey, Greece, Spain or Italy, or one of the Mediterranean islands.
For those rainy days where you just can't find any dry rock (or can't climb hard enough to climb on the dry rock), there are an assortment of Gyms in the area:
www.magnesia-klettern.de/ Arguably the best sport climbing gym, and also one of the only ones!
cafekraft.de/ Nürnberg's premier bouldering gym which started a bouldering revolution here.
blockhelden.de/ Located in a village south of Forchheim and north of Erlangen. Bigger than Cafe Kraft but lacking a "cool factor".
boulderhalle-e4.de/ ANOTHER bouldering gym! The newest one, also in Nürnberg.
www.climbing-factory.de/preise.html In my opinion not nice at all, but they do offer sport climbing instead of just bouldering.
www.sportcentrum-nbg.de/ Another climbing gym which is pretty small because it has lots of other sport possibilities. Has both climbing and bouldering.
www.boulderhalle-frankenjura.de/ The only bouldering gym I'm aware of that's actually in the Frankenjura.
Browse More Classics in Frankenjura
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Frankenjura:
Featured Route For Frankenjura
: ... : Algersdorfer Wand
Another one of the area classics. Expect that if anybody else is here with you, they're going to want to get on Brennpunkt.Climb a slab to reach a no hands rest. Then climb up to the start of the overhang where you can rest again a little before firing through it. THEN comes the crux. After you get the crux, easy climbing leads to the anchor.The name means "Burning Point"....[more] Browse More Classics in International
Bob Horan bouldering in the Frankenjura.
The Frankenjura, Germany, home of the great Wolfg...
Great climbing in the Frankenjura!
A salamander found in the Frankenjura
A view of the steepness of Eldorado with the playg...
|By Owen Darrow|
Feb 24, 2011
How many areas or crags are in the area surrounding Frankenjura?
|By Mark J Gain|
May 24, 2011
The Frankenjura is a spectacular place to climb but you want a car to get around. The crags are spread out much like Fountainbleu (France) and/or Arco (Italy). Although I prefer Arco and Finale in Italy the Frankenjura has a tremendous amount of s;ightly shorter and forested climbing than Italy. A must to Visit if climbing in Europe along with Spain, France/Dolomites Italy etc...
From: Erlangen, Germany
Jun 4, 2011
The redpoint was invented by Kurt Albert. If you're interested at all in climbing history and seeing the first actual redpoint painted by Kurt, you can go check out the Adolf Rott Ged.-Weg on Streitberger Schild www.klettern.frankenjura.com/php3/select_route.php3?id=2-03->>>
And don't forget to bring some nuts (stoppers) for some of the not-too protected routes!
From: Erlangen, Germany
Jun 13, 2011
There are TONS of great routes 5.10 and under here. If you're not a rock star, come check out the Frankenjura! You'll have a great time climbing on great rock and eating great food and drinking great beer. Not to mention, the people are also great!
If you're visiting, let me know if you're interested in buying my used but in very good condition guidebook. It's in English and is perfect for somebody visiting and who is interested in checking out all the Frankenjura has to offer. Here's the book: www.panico.de/de/panico_buecher/mittelgebirgsfuehrer/franken>>> I'll sell you mine for €5 and let you choose between shipping it to you or giving it to you personally if you're in the area.