This is a very large climbing area with tons of routes. The climbs are typically a bit short (between 20 and 50 feet) but due to the vastness of the routes, there's everything from UIAA 2 or 3 up to 9+. Obviously there is a great variety of climbing. Also, the rock quality ranges from super hard and compact to chossy. For that reason, this area has many sections (mostly those in the Annasteinseite area) which aren't very good. The Klettergarten is broken up into 3 main sections: Annasteinseite, Dragonerwand, and Landrichterseite.
From the A73, take the Buttenheim exit and head towards Ebermannstadt. Drive through Gunzendorf and up to Frankendorf. The GPS coordinates point to the village of Frankendorf. The three main area descriptions provide directions from here.
Start on the arete. To reach the first bolt, you can either go left on the face (easiest and probably still 5.8), or do a harder, unprotected variation by directly following the arete. Once the first bolt is clipped, continue up the arete on increasingly better holds to the third bolt, then up and slightly left to the anchor.The name means "Little ugly gnome" but it is also known as "Nordkante" (North Arete)....[more]Browse More Classics in International