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Feb 19, 2013
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I was thumbing through the first edition of John Sherman's Better Bouldering and noticed a problem on pg. 42 in Franconia Notch called "The Torcher".

The Torcher Franconia Notch, NH
The Torcher
Franconia Notch, NH


I was wondering if anyone knew where this problem was. It looks super classic and I'd love to get on it sometime. Also, is there a bunch of bouldering in the notch? I've climbed with ropes out there but have never heard of anyone bouldering (other than this photo). I couldn't find anything with a Google search. Tons of talus below Cannon, it seems there must be some good stuff.

Thanks for any info.
Rock Cricket
From Norfolk, CT
Joined Sep 14, 2012
35 points
Feb 19, 2013
There is quite a bit of bouldering all over the Notch... some hidden and some not
Secrets of the Notch (i think new edition) is coming out.
by- jamie Cunnungham/Jon Syckes
john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,279 points
Feb 19, 2013
This is a topic I'm also interested in, so I would like to stretch the question into Kinsman Notch also. keohan68
From Landaff,NH
Joined Nov 8, 2008
42 points
Feb 19, 2013
There's a ton of bouldering in the Whites and very little of it has made it on to MP. This omission includes the obvious, very accessible boulders beneath Cathedral.

I'm not much of boulderer myself but I definitely encourage people to post up boulders. The bouldering in the area is probably as good as any place in New England. And there has to be some way to hurt yourself on a rest day.

Jim
jim.dangle
Joined Jul 13, 2011
2,738 points
Feb 19, 2013
In the current (2008) Secrets of the notch, there is mention of 'several good problems' at the bouldering wall on Echo crag. Thats all the mention I found of bouldering in the book. No listed problems, though. johnthethird
Joined Jan 6, 2012
13 points
Feb 20, 2013
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I can't wait to get out there and check out the blocks. Also psyched to get on Cannon. Rock Cricket
From Norfolk, CT
Joined Sep 14, 2012
35 points
Feb 20, 2013
For what it's worth I'd encourage people not to post it up. Just go talk to the boys at IME. Jonathan Steitzer
From midcoast, maine
Joined Feb 21, 2010
1,425 points
Feb 20, 2013
An obvious problem at Cannon is on the approach to the right side slabs area. Nice block with a couple of problems including a finger crack.

Many problems lie along and just off the bike trail that follows the road. Another area is down by the Flume.

I have not been, but Kinsman has a lot as well.
john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,279 points
Administrator
Feb 20, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
steitz wrote:
For what it's worth I'd encourage people not to post it up. Just go talk to the boys at IME.


I'd encourage both actually... no reason not to add boulders to the site, esp if they are on public land. That is unless you have a problem sharing I guess...

There's a few problems in the parking lot for the Glen Boulder as well as some sweet lines we put up on the Glen Boulder. Mahoosuc notch is just loaded with boulders...
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,422 points
Feb 20, 2013
The future of NH bouldering lies in the alpine areas.... huntington, King.. etc john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,279 points
Feb 20, 2013
steitz wrote:
For what it's worth I'd encourage people not to post it up. Just go talk to the boys at IME.


I'm curious-- why should MP readers be discouraged from posting stuff up on MP?

Jim
jim.dangle
Joined Jul 13, 2011
2,738 points
Feb 20, 2013
Right.. I spent a good part of my life talking to "the boys" at IME.. it usually got me nowhere.

I wasn't a "local"
john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,279 points
Feb 20, 2013
me climbing at lost horizon, NH
john strand wrote:
There is quite a bit of bouldering all over the Notch... some hidden and some not Secrets of the Notch (i think new edition) is coming out. by- jamie Cunnungham/Jon Syckes

Do you know exactly when their guide book is coming out? i know they used to have a webpage but i cant find it any more.
patrick donahue
From Gunnison, Colorado
Joined Mar 15, 2010
420 points
Feb 20, 2013
I would check with Jamie Cunningham. i don't think he's on MP but is on NEClimbs john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,279 points
Administrator
Feb 27, 2013
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
I've seen that photo before, and I've wondered about that problem as well. I posted a question on my FB page. Maybe someone know something about it. If I find out, I'll post here.

And to whoever said that the "boys at IME" are a better source for bouldering info: That statement is both unrefined (women work there as well) and incorrect.
Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
6,047 points
Mar 13, 2013
Alright so I drive through "The Notch" a few times a week, and I think this boulder is right off the road across from the lake. The next time I get a chance I will stop and take a closer look. keohan68
From Landaff,NH
Joined Nov 8, 2008
42 points
Administrator
Mar 13, 2013
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
I got word that the boulder is on the approach to Lakeview. That's all I know, and I haven't gotten a chance to check it out myself yet. Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
6,047 points
4 days ago
Fun unknown V4-5 problem in So. NH.
Anyone ever find The Torcher? Stumbled on this old post but no follow up. I am very interested in this problem, looks amazing! Evan V
From Nashua, New Hampshire
Joined Aug 31, 2014
219 points
3 days ago
Where's Waldo?
I live in No Conway and have been scouring everywhere for boulder problems. They are not as abundant as you think-- Very steep terrain, bad landings, lots of growth and lichen, etc. So as far as a bunch of obvious stuff near cathedral, whitehorse, and humphrey's it's not quite the right scenario.

Kind of ironic considering the amount of cliff climbing around. But then again how does Pawtuckaway end up so perfect out in the middle of nowhere?
Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
212 points
3 days ago
Russ,

Pawtuckaway isn't middle of nowhere if you live in southern NH. I'll trade with you!

Mark
Mark NH
From 03053
Joined Feb 2, 2013
5 points
Administrator
3 days ago
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
There is definitely good bouldering in Kinsman. I haven't climbed any yet, but I went for an exploratory hike a couple months ago in the rain. On this map I parked near where it says Borrow Pit and cut in to the woods on the north side of the road and up the hillside just south of where the Lost River crosses under the road. I then headed north and made an arch to the east to drop into the notch below the visible rock. The notch is full of giant scree of really good quality rock. There is certainly good stuff to be had there, but you have to figure out your padding etc. I would like to have explored this area more, but I was running out of light and the storm was getting really heavy. I then headed down the notch kind of SE and then south and ran into a trail, which I followed back to the river. Along this trail I noticed several good boulders and a ledge that had obviously been climbed on. In low water I think the trail went across the river and up to the road, but by now it was very flooded so I had to follow the bank back down to where I had left the road. It was dark when I got to the road so I didn't get to go look for the trailhead.

The initial hike up didn't reveal anything noteworthy until I got into the notch, so the obvious thing to do is go back and find the start of the trail and have a look. Unfortunately the rain killed my camera so I don't have any photos to share.
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,761 points
Administrator
3 days ago
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
Russ, there are tons and tons of bouldering to be found all over in the Whites. Yes, much of it is going to require some work to get to and most likely there will initially be a lot of growth and lichen to deal with, but it is New England. That is the way it is. Builds character. The bouldering potential in the Whites has barely been scratched. You just have to get out there and look beyond the bases of the most popular crags. Id suggest checking out around Sundown, near Madison (can't remember the name of the lake there)and below Harts Ledge near Bartlett (only a 15 min hike down a mellow logging road) to start. I am sure the locals have plenty more secret stashes.

There is great potential in the alpine zone, but I don't think it is necessarily great to encourage masses of boulderers up there unless they are really careful to go low impact. Scrubbing lichen and wearing spider trails is a whole other thing there compared to lower elevations that grow right back if not climbed on regularly.
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,761 points
3 days ago
Where's Waldo?
Yes, true, thanks Mark. Spread out and mysterious. While this is fun, and might pay dividends over a long stretch of development, I find bouldering to be a quick-fix type of thing. Before/after work, need a burn for an hour or two.... And if I'm going to spend an entire day for bouldering, I'll want a decent amount of options in one place.

Pawtuckaway- It's so clutch how so many gigantic beautiful boulders ended up tumbling down from God knows where, ending in a nice gently soft and flat area, all sitting there just desperate to be climbed.

I think the nature of the rugged steep alpine terrain in Franconia and elsewhere in the Whites makes it difficult for the same bouldering to be available. Granted I am not discounting the infinite number of boulders that are in the wilderness up in the north country. To be sure there's more to climb than you could ever count. It's just where and how.
Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
212 points
Administrator
3 days ago
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
Jonathan Steitzer wrote:
For what it's worth I'd encourage people not to post it up. Just go talk to the boys at IME.


Personally, I think that is kind of lame. It is not like the bouldering is even remotely getting overrun. Just look at Rumney, the most densely used area in NH and you head into the boulders and you can almost always be alone, there is still tons of potential for quality new lines and stuff grows back so quickly that lines get new "FAs" every 5-10 years.

Take the Sugar Maple Grove Boulders below Harts for example. I know Rich Baker and others did a lot there, but Rich passed away a few years ago and now I can't find any information beyond a little from Handren.
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,761 points
Administrator
3 days ago
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
Russ Keane wrote:
Yes, true, thanks Mark. Spread out and mysterious. While this is fun, and might pay dividends over a long stretch of development, I find bouldering to be a quick-fix type of thing. Before/after work, need a burn for an hour or two.... And if I'm going to spend an entire day for bouldering, I'll want a decent amount of options in one place. Pawtuckaway- It's so clutch how so many gigantic beautiful boulders ended up tumbling down from God knows where, ending in a nice gently soft and flat area, all sitting there just desperate to be climbed. I think the nature of the rugged steep alpine terrain in Franconia and elsewhere in the Whites makes it difficult for the same bouldering to be available. Granted I am not discounting the infinite number of boulders that are in the wilderness up in the north country. To be sure there's more to climb than you could ever count. It's just where and how.


I have often thought it would be nice to have some heavy lift helis and snitch all the best boulders in RI and put them in my back field, plus seeing the look on people's faces when they arrived at the former site of Try Again would be priceless.
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,761 points
3 days ago
M Sprague wrote:
I have often thought it would be nice to have some heavy lift helis and snitch all the best boulders in RI and put them in my back field, plus seeing the look on people's faces when they arrived at the former site of Try Again would be priceless.


Lol could you imagine that? You get bored of the problems so you take your heli and flip it over, new problems!
eddysamson
Joined Apr 28, 2014
553 points


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