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France 


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Submitted By: Braxtron on Jun 27, 2008

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Palace at Fontainebleau

Description 

There's more to this Euro country than just wine, cheese, and your French maid fantasy. If you're into any type of climbing (bouldering, sport, trad, alpine, ice), there are many world-class routes/problems to be had.


Getting There 

From the US: Save up your $ and ride in one of those fancy aeroplanes. Ask the pilot nicely to drop you off in Paris. Unless of course, you'd rather spend weeks at sea developing scurvy. I suggest the former.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for France:
Le Gout du Jour (Red 26)   V2     Boulder   Trois Pignons West : La Roche aux Sabots
Le Tiroir (The Drawer)   V3     Boulder   Trois Pignons West : La Roche aux Sabots
Les Buis   5.8     Trad, 8 pitches, 860 feet, Grade III   Presles : Les Buis
Crocs mignons et vieilles dentelles   5.8+     Sport, 5 pitches, 330 feet   Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles... : Vallorcine
Pilier Gris   5.9     Sport, 3 pitches, 160 feet   Vercors : Lans-en-Vercors
Tour des Gémeaux   5.9 PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III   Vercors : Mont Aiguille
Voie Rébuffat-Baquet   5.10a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II   Chamonix Aiguille : Aiguille de Midi
Afin Que Nul Ne Meure   5.10a     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 475 feet, Grade II   Belvedere de la Carelle : Dalles Grises
Super Mickey   5.12b     Sport, 75 feet   Ceuse : Secture Cascade
San John's Pecos   5.12+     Sport, 80 feet   Ceuse : Secture Berlin
Les Colonnettes   5.13     Sport, 100 feet   Ceuse : Secture Biograpie
Realization   5.15a     Sport, 120 feet   Ceuse : Secture Biograpie
Browse More Classics in France

Featured Route For France
La Tour des Gémeaux

Tour des Gémeaux 5.9 PG13  International : France : ... : Mont Aiguille
A classic route up beautiful rock. Neat features. A variety of fine climbing, from face, to overhangs, stemming, cracks. After the standard voie normal route, this route is the easiest way to the summit of Mont Aiguille. It’s also a bonus that the climbing is very fun, and the rock is uncharacteristically very good (for Mont Aiguille). It is, however, a bit of a step up in difficulty from the normal route (voie normal at 3c to this route at 5c) and the protection in several places ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of France Slideshow Add Photo
Grandes Jorasses.  The Walker Spur is the steep face on the left skyline.  The right-most spire is the Dent du Geant.

Grandes Jorasses. The Walker Spur is the steep fa...

Verdon Gorge.

Verdon Gorge.

The quaint village of Sisteron, an hour's drive south of Ceuse.

The quaint village of Sisteron, an hour's drive so...

Pont du Arc in the Ardeche Gorge.  Definitely some DWS potential....

Pont du Arc in the Ardeche Gorge. Definitely some...

Volx.  The rock is remeniscent of Sitting Bull Falls, NM.

Volx. The rock is remeniscent of Sitting Bull Fal...

The cliffs above Orpierre offer an abundance of moderates, though the rock is not quite as good as at the more famous French crags.

The cliffs above Orpierre offer an abundance of mo...

The legendary Southern crag of Orgon.  Home to numerous ground-breaking routes such as Bronx, one of the first 8c+ (14c) routes in the world.  Remeniscent of the Wasteland at Rifle, but taller and wider, with more routes.

The legendary Southern crag of Orgon. Home to num...

The beautiful pocketed sandstone of Buoux.  Home to such routes as Chouca, 8a+, Le Rose et le Vampire, 8b, & Agincourt, 8c, as well as countless classic moderates.

The beautiful pocketed sandstone of Buoux. Home t...

Bob Horan arriving at the Gorge du Verdon, France

Bob Horan arriving at the Gorge du Verdon, France

Climbing in the Gorge du Verdon, photo: Bob Horan

Climbing in the Gorge du Verdon, photo: Bob Horan

Les Calanques, France, photo: Bob Horan

Les Calanques, France, photo: Bob Horan

Buoux, France, photo: Bob Horan

Buoux, France, photo: Bob Horan

Climbing in Buoux, photo: Bob Horan Collection

Climbing in Buoux, photo: Bob Horan Collection

Patrick Edlinger in the Verdon, photo: Bob Horan Collection

Patrick Edlinger in the Verdon, photo: Bob Horan C...

The place to go when climbing at the Verdon Gorge - say hello to Sabine and Michel.

The place to go when climbing at the Verdon Gorge ...

Limestone everywhere (and thus routes everywhere) but the power lines are off route! Pont Mirabeau, France. July 2009.

Limestone everywhere (and thus routes everywhere) ...

Magnifique Ceuse

Magnifique Ceuse

On the way to Chamonix

On the way to Chamonix

The Aguille du Midi

The Aguille du Midi

The backside of the 'Pic de Bure' massif (2709m/8887ft) in the Dévoluy, as seen from the climbing area 'le secteur ultra secret'. The 'Pic de Bure' is host to some adventurous 20 pitch limestone trad routes...  <br />

The backside of the 'Pic de Bure' massif (2709m/88...

Crazy winter sunset with the massif of Céüse in the middle. This was one of the most awesome sunsets that I have witnessed...I took this photo with my point and shoot on the autimatic mode. Other photos of this sunset were in the local paper the next day!

Crazy winter sunset with the massif of Céüse in th...


Comments on France Add Comment
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By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Dec 31, 2008

The best place for gear and beta in Paris is at Au Vieux Campeur. The shop is located at 48 rue Ecoles, near the Maubert Mutualite bus/metro stop.

By Zach@Céüse Mountain Adventures
From: Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
Oct 6, 2012

If you're not planning on visiting Paris or bouldering in Font, there are closer and probably cheaper places to fly into than Paris. Look into Marsielle, Lyon or Geneva. Otherwise your looking at another 6+hrs of travel on the train or by car to get to the bulk of the climbing...train tickets can be expensive and by car you'd be traveling on toll roads, not to mention paying a hefty $8 a gallon for gas.