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Superb sport and trad climbs are found on this formation that sits high on a ridge on the eastern edge of the Desert Queen Mine area. Most of the climbs are west or north facing and remain shaded during the morning / early afternoon. Many (but not all) of the ratings for the routes in Randy's guide seemed soft for J-Tree but the star designations are reasonable. Excellent sport climbs include I Have The Touch (5.12b) and Sensory Deprivation (5.12b). Petrodynamics (5.10d) and Tiers For Fears (5.10d R) are among the best trad climbs.
One approach to this area that doesn't involve driving on dirt roads is to park at the Split Rocks area and take the developed trail that goes to the Morongo Man Cliffs. The trail continues to the top of the ridge and then continues north. You will pass old mining tunnels and tailings before reaching a miner's cabin at the base of Fraggle Rock.
12 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fraggle Rock:
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Tiers for Fears 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Fraggle Rock
Sensory Deprivation 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Fraggle Rock
This aptly named well protected and powerful sport climb is on an overhanging north face about 100' southeast of Fraggle Rock. The face is sculpted with large and deep huecos. A powerful gaston is necessary between the first and second bolt. The difficulty eases somewhat until the rock between the last bolt to the anchor is encountered; it is very difficult to put the rope through the carabiner on the middle link without grabbing the chain anchor. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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