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Superb sport and trad climbs are found on this formation that sits high on a ridge on the eastern edge of the Desert Queen Mine area. Most of the climbs are west or north facing and remain shaded during the morning / early afternoon. Many (but not all) of the ratings for the routes in Randy's guide seemed soft for J-Tree but the star designations are reasonable. Excellent sport climbs include I Have The Touch (5.12b) and Sensory Deprivation (5.12b). Petrodynamics (5.10d) and Tiers For Fears (5.10d R) are among the best trad climbs.
One approach to this area that doesn't involve driving on dirt roads is to park at the Split Rocks area and take the developed trail that goes to the Morongo Man Cliffs. The trail continues to the top of the ridge and then continues north. You will pass old mining tunnels and tailings before reaching a miner's cabin at the base of Fraggle Rock.
12 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fraggle Rock:
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Tiers for Fears 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Fraggle Rock
Tiers for Fears 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Fraggle Rock
This excellent three-tiered hand crack in found in the center of the west face of Fraggle Rock and is well worth the (somewhat) lengthy approach. The climb finishes directly via some run-out face climbing but a better protected "escape" (5.10b) can be made by cutting right at an obvious break. Fun, well-protected climbing in an area that is seldom visited by others is a bonus to this route as are the many other worthwhile climbs nearby.When visiting please be sure to leave the area as nice as yo...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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