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Superb sport and trad climbs are found on this formation that sits high on a ridge on the eastern edge of the Desert Queen Mine area. Most of the climbs are west or north facing and remain shaded during the morning / early afternoon. Many (but not all) of the ratings for the routes in Randy's guide seemed soft for J-Tree but the star designations are reasonable. Excellent sport climbs include I Have The Touch (5.12b) and Sensory Deprivation (5.12b). Petrodynamics (5.10d) and Tiers For Fears (5.10d R) are among the best trad climbs.
One approach to this area that doesn't involve driving on dirt roads is to park at the Split Rocks area and take the developed trail that goes to the Morongo Man Cliffs. The trail continues to the top of the ridge and then continues north. You will pass old mining tunnels and tailings before reaching a miner's cabin at the base of Fraggle Rock.
12 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fraggle Rock:
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Tiers for Fears 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Fraggle Rock
Stairway to Kevin 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Fraggle Rock
About 150' right of Tiers for Fears are several left-slanting crack systems. This climb takes a prominent rib on a face left of and in front of those slanting cracks. Gear belay and scramble off down and right. This is one of the easier routes in the area and features fun, well-protected climbing in a scenic, remote location....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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