Fraggle Rock from the west, Joshua Tree NP
Superb sport and trad climbs are found on this formation that sits high on a ridge on the eastern edge of the Desert Queen Mine area. Most of the climbs are west or north facing and remain shaded during the morning / early afternoon. Many (but not all) of the ratings for the routes in Randy's guide seemed soft for J-Tree but the star designations are reasonable. Excellent sport climbs include I Have The Touch
(5.12b) and Sensory Deprivation
(5.10d) and Tiers For Fears
(5.10d R) are among the best trad climbs.
One approach to this area that doesn't involve driving on dirt roads is to park at the Split Rocks area and take the developed trail that goes to the Morongo Man Cliffs. The trail continues to the top of the ridge and then continues north. You will pass old mining tunnels and tailings before reaching a miner's cabin at the base of Fraggle Rock.
Weather station 7.8 miles from here
12 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fraggle Rock:
Featured Route For Fraggle Rock
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Fraggle Rock
About 100' left of Tiers for Fears is this fabulous corner system with twin cracks. Lieback/jam and stem your way up the corner using both cracks to a bolted anchor at a stance.Perhaps the best gear lead on the rock, this fun climb has great moves on good rock in a quiet, remote-feeling setting. Were the climb longer perhaps it would deserve more stars. Three out of five stars....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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