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Scramble up & left 20' to a short, water polished dihedral with a small bush at the bottom of it. Climb up & over a funky overhang with big jugs and get stood up on the ledge over the lip (crux). Be sure to put in a directional piece here before traversing left across the ledge. Continue up the zig-zagging splitter finger crack towards a small dead tree on the left side of the prow. Finish straight up the exposed upper section to the anchors.
There is a direct start with two bolts that is an open project. It currently has a quick link on the second bolt.
From the Reptile Butress go right for about a 100' or so until you find a small flat, grassy patch at the base of another prominent butress.
Standard rack, bring extra cams from TCUs to 1 1/2" sizes. Also bring plenty of long runners.
Top end of the Fairytale.
|Comments on Fractured Fairytale
|By phil wortmann|
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Apr 21, 2008
Is that a bolted route to the left?
From: Morrison, CO
May 29, 2008
The direct start to Fractured Fairytale goes at ~5.12c. Beware the big flake at the 2nd bolt flexes a bit when you pull on it. I reefed pretty hard on it without any problems, but you might tell your belayer to stand to the side & wear a helmet. Excellent rock & good moves, and avoids the only poor quality section of FF.