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Fractured bone in Finger...alternate climbing exercises??
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Mar 2, 2012
Long story short I fractured a bone in the middle finger of my left hand and have been out of commission since earl February. Can't go climbing outside, can't go the gym, can't really even do a pull up on my hangboard.

I can make a fist (ish) but it looks like I'll be out of commission for some time. I know I won't be able to keep up climbing strength 100% but anyone have any suggestions for exercises that will help preserve some of that strength?


Joe C
From Boston, MA
Joined May 16, 2010
8 points
Mar 2, 2012
i recently recovered from a full fracture on my lower ring finger. long story short, I rushed it. re-injured it twice (tendon injuries from cranking too hard too soon). and am now finally back to 100% a year and a half later. don't be foolish, really don't rush it. your fingers are pretty important to climbing. see a doctor that understands climbing and maybe even put a wrist cast on to let it fully heal. S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Mar 2, 2012
Having fun at the Enchanted Tower.
I blew up my shoulder and was out for eight months last year... I decided to train my cardio and loose weight... Now instead of approaches making me their beoach, I make them my beoach. About three months after returning to climbing, I am climbing stronger and harder than ever.

Too bad I gained the weight back from the holidays, but working on that... again...
John Farrell
From Phoenix, AZ
Joined Jan 26, 2009
32 points
Mar 2, 2012
Try brazilian jiu jitsu, it's a great way to occupy your time when you can't climb. It uses similar muscle groups (arms and legs, not fingers), but more importantly, it requires a similar mentality. I used to get super bummed out when I was injured, until I started to accept it as part of the game and use the time wisely. Work on strength, cardio, endurance - whatever. Get your mind off of climbing however you can and stay active, and you will be surprised at the gains you've made when you get back at it. Good luck with the recovery! RyanO
From sunshine
Joined Jun 9, 2009
131 points
Mar 2, 2012
Me and Spearhead
If you're inclined to do some lifting you could always try some wraps. They work great on a barbell or dumbbell and you can pick them up cheap.

I like using them for after climbing when my grip is shot and I want to do a little extra training on the shoulders and core. You'll still have to use some grip strength but chances are the stress of the weight simply pushing on the bone itself will be the limiting factor in the training before the bone is 100%.
good luck
Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
143 points
Mar 4, 2012
Thank you all the suggestions! Joe C
From Boston, MA
Joined May 16, 2010
8 points


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