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 ADVANCED
The Planetarium
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien Friction S 
Apollo 13 T 
Devil's Thumb Southeast Chimney T 
Do The Bosco S 
Fractal Universe T 
Galactic Hitchhiker S 
Gravitational Pull S 
Infinite Impobability Drive S 
Just my Imagination S 
Lunar Lander S 
Mission To Mars S 
Muppets in Space S 
Space Cowboys T,S 
Starship Trooper S 
Sun Dogs S 
Unsorted Routes:

Fractal Universe 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Rodney
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,016
Submitted By: climnron on Nov 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Exiting the crux

kenetzel.com

Description 

Scary crack to the left of Space Cowboys.

Location 

Left of Space Cowboys.

Protection 

Small scary gear.


Photos of Fractal Universe Slideshow Add Photo
Fractal Universe <br /> <br /><a href='http://kenetzel.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >kenetzel.com</a>
Fractal Universe

kenetzel.com
On the send <br /> <br /><a href='http://kenetzel.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >kenetzel.com</a>
On the send

kenetzel.com
Beta Testing  <br /> <br /><a href='http://kenetzel.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >kenetzel.com</a>
Beta Testing

kenetzel.com
Pretending there is gear on Fractal Universe. <br /> <br /><a href='http://kenetzel.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >kenetzel.com</a>
Pretending there is gear on Fractal Universe.

ken...
J.Snyder on F.U. <br /> <br /><a href='http://kenetzel.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >kenetzel.com</a>
J.Snyder on F.U.

kenetzel.com

Comments on Fractal Universe Add Comment
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By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jul 2, 2014

First and formost it should be obvious that a route like Fractal Universe is not everyones cup of tea. There is some meh rock found between some really great Sedona sand-choss holds. The gear is specific and small and it does require climbing well above no fall pro. Plus not to mention a funky monkey Vsomething crux sequence above slider nuts. That being said it is also one of the best and most classic heads up serious routes that I can think of in Sedona (this doesnt include the world class Waterfall choss). Expect deliquate sequences, finicky gear, and enough air time above gear to want to bring two chalk bags. Again as for a Sedona choss serious route nothing compairs therfore I call it a 4 star route in a 10 star land of choss.
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jul 2, 2014

Also Rodmans concept of Sedona climbing is unrivaled. A route that most folks would have sunk 10 bolts into, Rodman refused and instead placed a bunch of tiny shiny things that at the time were jewelry rack for aid climbing. BAMF