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Foxy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Richard Wright
Page Views: 1,762
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Nov 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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BETA PHOTO: Resting at the flake. Photo: Roth

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Foxy is the next route to the right of Recovery. Move up a slab into steep blocky terrain. The guide gives this a "PG-13" rating because of a runout before the first bolt, but the climbing there is significantly easier than the rest of the route. Helped some guys get their rope down one day by climbing this pitch. It's fun, but pretty easy for the rating. I would say it's more like 5.10b or c, but you tell me what you think.

Protection 

8 bolts to lower off anchor.


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

'Twas a cold day but 11 something felt right. It was tough to move up midheight above little ankle threatening rest with that high step R and mantle R. Also, getting your butt off the flake just below the top felt quite awkward.
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Sep 6, 2002

Leo - the consensus grade (based on the opinion of numerous climbers) seems to be 11a/b with the rightward traverse at mid ht. providing the crux, then there's a 10+-ish move on the face below the roof and finally the already referenced awkward ass smear getting off the flake and onto the face above the roof. All together not a give-away, but what a fun route! Cool movement on darn nice stone. The gear could have been a little more thoughtfully placed at the start - as it is the run to the first clip, while easy, could have dire consequences if one were to slip and the long tumble off the slopy ledge could end in horrible injury - not a pretty thought. However, a long stick clip solves that problem.
By Bryson Slothower
May 30, 2003

Dirty and [awkward]....
By Michael Amato
Jul 22, 2005

One delicate face move underneath roof, then the awkward Eldo 5.9 ass smear. No where near 5.11.
By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
May 11, 2008

Now a clean and fun route. The slab moves below the roof were difficult for my friends and I. We all hung for a while. The roof reminded us of the Wind Ridge third pitch in Eldo.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Jul 10, 2008

Try a heel hook instead of the butt smear. Traverse right and throw up the heel. Much more aesthetically pleasing. I thought the under the roof move was pretty delicate.
By J mac
Nov 2, 2008

Fun route with a bit of everything from slabs to roofs. The crux is the slab under the roof. I think 11b is a bit steep though, maybe a 10d.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 7, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Having done this climb quite a few times, I'd give it a 10d/11a rating. It has a lot of rest, especially if you butt smear it, but the slab before the roof is pretty challenging. I've seen people walk Refer Madness and get stuck beneath the roof on this route.
By KylePaulCook
Apr 10, 2014

I'm not sure exactly why everyone is "ass smearing".... Coming around the outside of the bulge to give the send on the roof was fantastic climbing! (Note: my brother mentioned this may be a bit more dangerous due to the rope coming across the rock. Definitely needed a sling extension off the bolt to do this beta. anyone know if its actually more dangerous? Regardless I highly recommend giving the finger to the ass smear!)