|Eagle Point Buttress
This is a great introduction to RRG old school trad climbing. There are no fixed anchors, most first timers get mixed up in route finding and there is enough novelty to make you want to go back. Be aware that yahoos inhabit the summit and occasionally rain down detritus on to unsuspecting climbers. Helmets are good. Technical crux is the first fifteen feet, but you can cheat on the large hardwood. Route finding cruxes abound, most notably the second and third pitches. On the second pitch traverse the ledge ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT END and climb up the slab. On the third make the unlikely airy traverse LEFT on the next ledge. I've climbed this route more than 10 times with a new group of partners each time. It never gets old.
Hike upstream along the Red River into the Upper Gorge from the concrete bridge at the Menifee/Wolfe County line. Look for a distinct buttress east of a large slab before the river bends hard right. Look for the left slanting wide crack on the south face of the buttress.
Passive pro works, don't leave it behind, but more modern small cams make the second pitch more comfortable.
Andy Welter nearing the top of pitch 4
BETA PHOTO: This is the start of the route. Climb the crack (h...
Mindy Huddelston on the exposed traverse of FoxFir...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
A great climb not so much for the great climbing so to speak, but more for it's length, position, diversity of moves, route finding, etc...
A rarity for the area, and something special.
From: Muncie, IN
Apr 1, 2013
On Saturday March 30, my friend and I tried climbing this route. We became so off route idk what we climbed. We did the first pitch fine. We then worked right on the traverse. After the traverse we went up what seemed 5.7 face climbing. We then traversed far right by mistake and came to a nice looking crack into a face climb. I led this pitch which felt 5.9 R. went up a thin hands-hands crack for about 20 feet to a ledge. then traversed far right, place a BD #4 cam in a horizontal. I then worked right up a small ramp that i placed a #2 cam in the crack that followed along the wall of the ramp. I then traversed about 10 feet right of the piece on face climbing, Then climbed 10 feet up and then 20 feet back left. I ended up on a ledge with some rhodos and a tree at the end of it. i then worked up a small gully like feature with a tree at the top of it. the gully was maybe 20 feet. The hiking trail was about 2 feet back from the edge where I topped out at. Has anyone done this before or was this an FA? Also what is the best tree to rap off the top of. we double rope rapped from a tree about 10 feet back from the edge. Came down to find out there was too much friction to pull the rope, had to climb back up the rope a bit to pull it for the next rap. Has anyone had this happen to them before? Also there is a sweet dihedral that looks finger to thin hands with the final moves going into the roof and then top out. there were small vines growing out at the bottom. Has this been climbed before? we are wanting to go back and clean the start to climb it. will it be an FA?