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Routes in Eagle Point Buttress
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Blister in the Sun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cooler Than Kissing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Day Dreaming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Day Tripping T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dragon's Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Foxfire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hangover Problem, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quantum Mechanics T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Scared As a Virgin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tinker's Toy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Larry Day, et. al. 1974 |
| Page Views: | 8,638 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Aug 29, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
This is a great introduction to RRG old school trad climbing. There are no fixed anchors, most first timers get mixed up in route finding and there is enough novelty to make you want to go back. Be aware that yahoos inhabit the summit and occasionally rain down detritus on to unsuspecting climbers. Helmets are good. Technical crux is the first fifteen feet, but you can cheat on the large hardwood. Route finding cruxes abound, most notably the second and third pitches. On the second pitch traverse the ledge ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT END and climb up the slab. On the third make the unlikely airy traverse LEFT on the next ledge. I've climbed this route more than 10 times with a new group of partners each time. It never gets old.
Location
Hike upstream along the Red River into the Upper Gorge from the concrete bridge at the Menifee/Wolfe County line. Look for a distinct buttress east of a large slab before the river bends hard right. Look for the left slanting wide crack on the south face of the buttress.
Protection
Passive pro works, don't leave it behind, but more modern small cams make the second pitch more comfortable.
No longer R rated with a modern trad rack, plenty of good placements
Descent
Per KyleHeckler:
The guidebook says "rappel or walk off left" This is wrong. Walk off RIGHT. There are nice trails that lead right around the waterfall to a breakdown in the cliff.
The guidebook says "rappel or walk off left" This is wrong. Walk off RIGHT. There are nice trails that lead right around the waterfall to a breakdown in the cliff.
Photos
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