Type: Trad, Aid, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Gaétan Martineau and Jacques Lamontagne, around 1980
Page Views: 4,400 total · 35/month
Shared By: Patrick Brouillard on Jan 13, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Psychological: is the second roof. Good gear and straight aid helps to deal with the exposure. Pitch 8 is the technical crux. c3-. Pitch four is called :Le jet de sable. and has rotten rock in the first 20 meters.

Location Suggest change

Marchez le long du sentier. Le départ est environ à mi-chemin entre la plage et le principal site de camping, juste sous la grande arche bien visible du P1.

Il est beaucoup plus facile de descendre une fois que vous avez atteint le sommet à cause des énormes toits. Le dernier point pour faire demi-tour est depuis la corniche entre les deux toits : une descente en rappel avec deux cordes vous ramène au début du Jet de Sable (de là, 2 rappels double jusqu'au sol).

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Walk up the trail. Start is half the distance from the beach to the main camping site, right under the big noticeable arch of P1.

Much easier to walk down once you have topped out because of the massive roofs. Last bail point is from the ledge between the two roofs: a double rope rappel brings you back to the start of Jet de Sable pitch (from here, 2 double raps to the ground).

Protection Suggest change

All belay are on good bolts.

Most of the route goes clean at C2+/3. One should bring a hammer, a rurp, and beaks (2 small, 1 medium and 1 large), in case any fixed gear would be missing on the last pitches.

Bring a big rack, including small cams and a number 5 (great, but not mandatory).

Photos

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