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 ADVANCED
North Face & Northwest Corner
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
California Dreaming T,S 
Call Evita 911 T 
Doldrums T 
Fourplay T 
Friend of the Devil 
Klondike T,S 
Leaping Lizards T 
McCarthy's North Face T 
Mystic and the Mulchers T 
Psychic Turbulance T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Spiney Norman T 
Whine and Bruises T 

Fourplay 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Hong, Budding, Smedley, Feiges
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Paul Heyliger on May 28, 2003

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Description 

Fourplay is the very nice finger flake and crack two lines to the right of (and around the corner from) Psychic Turbulence. It involves straight-in fingers with no real crux move, with excellent protection all the way, up to a comfortable ledge at the end of your rope. I cannot imagine doing the upper pitches (a death-block was knocked loose on the first ascent), and most will rappel after the one pitch. The lower belay is easily reached by traversing left from the NW shoulder routes.

Protection 

Many medium RP's and small-medium wired stoppers with a few cams up to No. 1 Friends.


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By Neil Kauffman
May 29, 2009

One of the best finger cracks I've done at the Tower, needs some traffic to stay clean. After we aided it yesterday, all the locks were cleaned out and it was lapped many times, lookin good now! Excellant balancy locking sequences with wild footwork and a short cruxy thin fingertip section. We climbed it in two pitches, a short easy approach pitch to a comfy gear anchor (#2&3 camalot), then the crack (many small-med.stoppers, extra finger cams). Go get some!!!
By slim
Administrator
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

long pitch of awesome climbing. very heavy on the tips to fingers gear.