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Fourplay is the very nice finger flake and crack two lines to the right of (and around the corner from) Psychic Turbulence. It involves straight-in fingers with no real crux move, with excellent protection all the way, up to a comfortable ledge at the end of your rope. I cannot imagine doing the upper pitches (a death-block was knocked loose on the first ascent), and most will rappel after the one pitch. The lower belay is easily reached by traversing left from the NW shoulder routes.
Many medium RP's and small-medium wired stoppers with a few cams up to No. 1 Friends.
By Neil Kauffman
May 29, 2009
One of the best finger cracks I've done at the Tower, needs some traffic to stay clean. After we aided it yesterday, all the locks were cleaned out and it was lapped many times, lookin good now! Excellant balancy locking sequences with wild footwork and a short cruxy thin fingertip section. We climbed it in two pitches, a short easy approach pitch to a comfy gear anchor (#2&3 camalot), then the crack (many small-med.stoppers, extra finger cams). Go get some!!!
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
long pitch of awesome climbing. very heavy on the tips to fingers gear.