Four Peckers and an Amazon
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b A2+ [details]|
|FA: ||Sam Lightner JR and Brad Brandewie|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||spring summer fall|
|Page Views: ||614|
|Submitted By: ||Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jul 22, 2009|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
A vertical pano of Sam on his way back to the rim ...
This route takes off from the notch between the tower and the main wall. IT starts with a 90 foot seam, followed by broken free climbing to the summit.
The aid seem is perfect for peckers and thin pins (at the moment). We only had 4 of such, so we were forced to do like 15-25 feet of climbing (occasional other gear) then place a bolt, lower and clean, and repeat the process. That said, there are like 4 bolts on the first pitch to break up the seem. It could be done on nothing but peckers, but the worst rock is at the very top so, well, wear a hat!
The very last moves of the second pitch require heavy use of the teetery block seen on the right side of the summit in Brads video. Its a bit disconcerting. Again, wear a hat and try not to piss it off.
P1 = Directly across from the rappel climb the seem to a ledge that has two bolts. ONe bolt is bad... it went in funky. Sorry. IT can be backed up.
P2 = Climb up and left past a bolt to a very committing (ankles away) slab move. Like 9+ or 10-, but a bit soft and with ramifications. Follow a corner, traverse across the ledge, climb through some choss and up an arete to the teetery block. We had a name for it that hopefully Brad can remember. Pull real hard to get past the thing onto the summit ledge.
You have to do a boulder problem to actually top out, then reverse it to get back to the rappel/tyrolean ledge.
The permanantly shady side of Amazon Tower.
Lots of thin gear, a set of nuts, a complete set or two of cams, a few quickdraws, and a sense of humor.
|Photos of Four Peckers and an Amazon Slideshow
|Comments on Four Peckers and an Amazon
|By Sam Lightner, Jr.|
Jul 30, 2009
I have rethunk it and decided that the nasty choss filled black hole of a chimney on the second pitch consumed one of the original stars. Despite all the laughing about using the deathblock, this route only deserves one star. That star is for the first pitch... and the emotions the death block will stir up in everyone who does it.
|By Ben Kiessel|
Jul 4, 2012
Bill, Matt and I did this a while ago and the second pitch was pretty fun. The block is big and scary but solid.
Also it is possible to swing over on the rappel to the last bolt on pitch one and then free climb up to the pitch 1 anchor. (the top of pitch one is a way better vantage point for harassing the person leading pitch 1)
Great route guys!