Four Ounces to Freedom  5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Mike Farnsworth New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Mike Farnsworth on Jan 27, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Working it before the bolts were all in!

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Description 

If you like thin arete climbing, this route is for you! Climb the beautiful square-cut arete. There are no stopper moves (once you get the beta, and provided the temperatures are optimal), but the hardest part is certainly just below the number 2 Camalot placement where the roof meets the arete. For me, the foot sequence was key, culminating in a "falling" toss to a decent sloper while holding a "nipple" with my left hand. The top could honestly use an additional bolt or two; if you want to put these in, be my guest. Otherwise, I might get around to it some day.

Location 

Scramble up the gully to the left of Gun Show to a ledge - belay here. It might be worth anchoring the belayer to the small pine, as the ledge feels exposed.

Protection 

quickdraws and a numero dos (number 2 Camalot)