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The Nappy Dugout
Routes Sorted
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Drunken Monkey S 
Family Unit S 
Fossil Family S 
Fringe Dweller S 
Frizzle Frye S 
Ivory Tower S 
Kingfisher S 
Lung Fish S 
Mr. Cranky Pants S 
Perfect Gun, The S 
PMS S 
PMT S 
Z Man S 

Fossil Family 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brad Buhrow, Eric Candee
Page Views: 4,583
Submitted By: chad wolak on Jun 19, 2003

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Fossil Family - 5.12a.

Description 

On the left side of the Nappy Dugout is Fossil Family. It's recognized by its first three bolts (homemade and shared with Family Unit) and by the right-trending and upward (of course) discontinuous seam that comprises its upper half.

Climb up to the third bolt, then move up and right along the seam for three more clips, passing a rooflet near the sixth bolt, to a two bolt anchor. STELLAR, power-sapping climbing on good holds adds up to a super-fun climb worthy of many stars.

After you send... do the next climber a favor by scrubbing one or two of the seam holds during your victorious lower from the anchors.... Maybe some day we'll be able to touch actual stone in the upper seam of Fossil Family?


Protection 

Eight quickdraws (includes the anchor).



Photos of Fossil Family Slideshow Add Photo
Rest after low crux.
Rest after low crux.
Jacob flying through the traverse on Fossil Family.
Jacob flying through the traverse on Fossil Family...
Low on Fossil Family.
Low on Fossil Family.
Chris K. sticking the reachy lower crux move.
BETA PHOTO: Chris K. sticking the reachy lower crux move.
Diana Rogers clipping.
Diana Rogers clipping.
Route
Route
Upper crux on Fossil Family.
Upper crux on Fossil Family.
Diana Rogers leading Fossil Family.
Diana Rogers leading Fossil Family.
Comments on Fossil Family Add Comment
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By chad wolak
Jan 23, 2004

This comment is to supplement the above route description :

Sometime in the fall of 2003 I noticed the first three homemade bolts of this route have been replaced with modern bolts. Also, in-situ lower chains are installed.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2007

Very, very fun route. Well worth doing.

By dbyte
From: Carbondale, CO
Jun 14, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I second Dr. Evil's opinion - good movements on generally decent holds, but still somehow deceptively pumpy. Also has fixed draws to simplify getting on it. I imagine cleaning the gear would add a crux.

By Evan Winn
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Check the in-situ draw on the last bolt. A sharp bit of rock likes to eat thruogh the webbing at the top biner. Draws don't last long on that bolt. There is a "new" one up now and the fall is clean if the draw fails but still be aware.

Other than that, it is an excellent climb, and I highly recommend it, even if you don't consider yourself a 5.12 climber (due to strength or injury). Good holds make it accessible, but the pump and power moves makes it worth the rating.