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 ADVANCED
Southeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alvin 
Barfy's Favorite 
Black Dog 
Central Chimney 
Dancing Ladies  
Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) 
Greatest Route 
Inner Mountain Flame 
Jetstream Deluxe 
Judy's Jaunt 
Keep the River Free 
Le Petit Francais 
Misty Mountain Hop 
Mr. Gone 
Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). 
Rites of Passage 
Simon 
Theodore 
Unsorted Routes:

Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Laurie Parcell, Craig Luebben, S. Schmetterer, Sally Moser
Page Views: 690
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 14, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: This shot captures the first two pitches of FNS. ...

Description 

This line lies immediately right of The Greatest Route at Greyrock, and sports a strikingly similar opening sequence through a short, right-facing dihedral capped by a roof ten feet off the deck.

P1: Boulder through the roof on good handjams (5.9), and follow cracks and face climbing to the left edge of a roof band to meet a second, much thinner, crux (5.9) with tricky pro. Pull the moves to gain a belay at a horizontal crack (hand-sized & larger cams). 5.9, 110 feet.

P2: Head straight up the face (9-) off the belay, passing two nice 3/8" bolts along the way to a seam. Continue up seams and face climbing - slightly runout - aiming right through quartzite terrain to find a suitable spot to belay near the huge P3 dihedral of Barfy's Favorite. 5.9-, 120 feet.

P3: Bearing right, climb the face, with cracks, above, passing a large dead tree. This face is "around the corner," so to speak, of the P3 dihedral of Barfy's. The angle eases and climbing leads to a convenient belay on a large ledge, also shared with Barfy's. 5.7+, 120 feet.

P4: This pitch is the same as P4 of Barfy's Favorite. Ascend the face or corner rising off the ledge (5.7 either way) to a right-facing corner and roof about 40 feet out. Pull through the squat overlap on good jams (5.7) and paddle up the crack above to a belay on/near the summit plateau. Better than P3. 5.7, 200+ feet.


Location 

Ten or fifteen feet right of The Greatest Route at Greyrock lies a right-facing corner with a roof about ten feet off the ground. This is the start to Forward Never Straight. The second pitch runs parallel to the Greatest Route.


Protection 

A standard rack up to #3 Camalot is fine for this climb, with an emphasis on small pro for the first pitch.



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By Aaron Martinuzzi
Feb 14, 2010

Rock quality on the third pitch of this route is a bit out-of-character for Greyrock, being a little more exfoliating than other lines in the area. Additionally, near the top of P2, visible in the photo as what appears as a right-facing flake to the right of Greatest Route's roof is a huge death block, held in place by some sort of twisted black magic. Watch out for that thing - a big whip on a cam placed behind it might be enough to rip it off the wall. Some kind-hearted soul willing to lug a crowbar up there might be able to dislodge it, as well.

By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Sep 11, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c PG13

Finally climbed this route today. Excellent climbing and definitely a little spicy. Way better than The Greatest Route. Go do it! Whoo Hoo! Still psyched on Greyrock!

That huge block is still there, though I don't believe its fall-line would endanger a belayer, it would certainly pose a serious threat to anyone at the base of the wall - or even to anyone hiking up the main summit trail down in the trees. Tread lightly! Whoo Hoo!

By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c PG13

Also, I managed to go up and left from the big block, through some very interesting, though suspect rock - and belayed from the same ledge above the roof on Greatest Route. This was a good really good finish and allowed me to stay clear of Rites of Passage's upper pitches.